Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

righto guys, problem.. help is needed.

we just had a major storm over here, fork lightning, strong winds. the works.

I noticed the storm was comming, so i shut down both the gaming PC and the server, turned off the battery backup system. and unpluged everything from the wall sockets.

after the storm had passed, plugged everything back in, server starts up fine. gaming PC loops itself.

turn on -> motherboard check -> loop -> loop -> restart.

i can not see the motherbaord screen ( i.e GIGABYTE welcome screen). so i am guessing either the power supply has somehow shit itself.. or the motherboard has finally packed it in. any help would be appreciated

intel core 2 quad Q6600 2.66GHz

GIGABYTE GA-EP45 - UD3L

Quadleadtek GTX 470

1 x WD green 1TB HDD ( boot drive)

seagate 1.5TB HDD ( secondary/storage)

Thermaltake Qfan toughpower 850W PSU

Kingston HyperX DDR2 RAM ( speed unknown. cant remember)

ah usual with tradition. something screws up over xmas period. (last yer the great HDD failure of 2010)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386482-motherboard-failure/
Share on other sites

explain loop - as this will help

i assume by motherboard check, it's posting then restarts

try pulling everything out except power and see if you get a post fail - no ram - if so mobo should be good - then start putting everything back 1 at a time - starting with ram - see if it post and stays on - then GPU - then HDD - then anything else

if it doesnt post or fail post it could be either mobo or PSU

just replaced the PSU with a backup i have ( 700W). and no change.

the loop is bascially restarting itself, i should of been more clearer. i cant get into the bios or boot menu because i cant get to the motherboard screen to press F12 / F9 to get bios/boot menu.

i'll try your suggestions tomorrow morning when i wake up :) thanks for the quick reply

Edited by liger

If pulling things out one by one does not work then do this:

Take out the battery on the mobo, flush (press power etc), and reinstall & try again with just CPU, RAM and a HDD/SSD. No GPU or other PCI items.

yeah i didnt think to clear the CMOS. so i'll get stuck into it early tomorrow morning.

another motherboard is on order aswell as some new ram ( to suit DDR3 mobo). if i fix it before they arrive, i'll keep them as spares.

Edited by liger

reset CMOS and tried to boot with 1 stick of RAM. the motherboard went past its self-test phase ( phase 1,2,3 LED's turned themselves off, before they would stay on).

so hooked up a HDD and GPU and i can now boot to windows. NFI what the problem was with it last night. probably that time of the month i imagine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
×
×
  • Create New...