Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Radiator still for sale? is it in good nik?

Pm me please

Yep rad is in good condition, couple of minor bent fins on the back but perfectly serviceable

pm reply coming your way soon

Front and rear seats sold

Plenty left (except interior bits) incuding rims, immaculate front guards and doors, airbags, whole dash, airbag steering wheel, Gtr strut brace (rear), castor rods, hubs, suspension, turbo timer, a/c controls, alloy radiator, clear side indicators and more......

UPDATE!

Shell has now gone to the scrap yard but I still have the following parts available:

Happy to arrange for shipping of most items at buyer's expense.

Hubs front only $150 or $300 front and rear.

Rear sway bar $50.

Rear cradle $100 no brakes or diff, one bent control arm, includes hubs.

IMG_1170.jpg

Front stocker suspension with lowered springs and rear HKS suspension $130

Rear boots are torn but otherwise fine, no leaks.

IMG_1247.jpg

Front guards $100 each

Immaculate condition, silver, include Gt badges

Clear side indicators $40 pair

IMG_1252.jpg

IMG_1251.jpg

Guard liners $50 pair or $30 each

IMG_1237-1.jpg

Side skirts $100 pair

IMG_1086.jpg

Fog lights $60 pair

IMG_1234.jpg

Rear wing $100

IMG_1260.jpg

Doors $130 each

Immaculate condition, trims not included

IMG_1253.jpg

Side mirrors $30 each

19 inch rims $700

Maxxis rubber with heaps of tread.

IMG_1163.jpg

Alloy 50mm single core radiator $140

IMG_1133.jpg

Dash pad $150

Perfect condition.

IMG_1256.jpg

Ignition barrel with key $50

IMG_1240.jpg

Indicator and wiper stalks $15 each

IMG_1244.jpg

Climate control unit $40

IMG_1182.jpg

Passenger airbag $100 pick up only

IMG_1192.jpg

Front and rear seatbelts $200

Nismo gearknob $40

IMG_1184.jpg

Din pocket $20

Sony Xplod Stereo with remote control and manual $60

IMG_1186.jpg

Blitz Voice Guide turbo timer $50

IMG_1180.jpg

Interior B/C pillar trims $30 each or both for $50

IMG_1232.jpg

IMG_1231.jpg

ABS unit $80

IMG_1124.jpg

ABS bracket $20

IMG_1236.jpg

Rb25 AFM $50

IMG_1235.jpg

Aftermarket castor rods $70

IMG_1245.jpg

Power steering rack $50

R33Gtststeeringrack.jpg

Nissan tool kit $15

IMG_1233-1.jpg

5Zigen tip $50 (Has the 5Zigen stamp on the tip, muffler is damaged)

IMG_1263.jpg

Cat to muffler 3” exhaust pipe $40

IMG_1238.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...