Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and as a heads up a cheap supercheap cannon as a rear muffler are pointless, barely reduces noise, will alter the exhaust note to be more "raspy" which unless your a Honda lover is usually undesirable lol, and if you go to big ie anything bigger than a 4" tip people will laugh at you.

just my opinion its your car man build it how u like, still keen to see a video of the cars exhaust :)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry dude i didn't realise it already had a catback. resonators actully help an exhaust more than people realise as they reduce resonance wich helps a lot with the horrible drown skylines seem to have at around 2000 rpm.

If I put a Varex muffler on this which bypases the noise through smaller holes packed with god knows what to quiten it down, would I still be able to take them out?, I got one put in and I hardly heard a difference

most mufflers are packed with fiberglass, i can imagine the varex one would be to different. Personally i have no experience with the varex kits, but I've herd cars with them and when the internal valve is closed i wasn't a fan of the sound, deffinatly quiter but.

I would rather have an exhaust that has a nice note and volume all the time, rather than having something loud and raspy when open and muffeled to high hello when closed. I'm sure there'd be a thread on varex products on here somewhere.

The only reason I look at this option is because I have been told by transport my car is too loud before which is why the stocks on it atm so I thought that would be a good idea and i've heard you can get a good sound from them when opened up

Yeah definate, well My muffler dealer (Local Muffler dealer) said he could install one (A large some of money) and it would be legal. They also install them onto new R8's and XR8's. So i'd hope they're.

i think s1 had is as an option and so they all had the fuse locations. if there is an alloy box at the back of the engine bay with brake lines going into it then you have abs.

you can see it here behind the power steering reseviour

post-24887-1165831522.jpg

Se the wire connection on the end of the pipe from the CAI, the grey and the brown plug going into the black box, what is that for?

home made varex still isn't legal. any muffler with some form of variable restrictor has to be tested at it's loudest, which is why the varex aren't legal.

moral of the story: don't be another one of those dopey P plate skyline owners driving around with a stupidly loud exhuast that sounds like arse (to everyone but you) giving the skyline community a bad name.

can't wait for school holidays to be over.........

yer i didn't think they were legal, and hey hey hey I'm on my ps and my na skyline isnt that.... wait a minute yer its pretty loud, but on the down side i lose kebab points for not having a cannon lol.

Eh gay, it doesn't have any ABS, why would there be something in place of the 30Amp slots in the fuse box then?

My NA has fuses for ABS, ATTESSA & HICAS, none of which it has.

If you want a Varex or something similar try to source a GTS25 Type S factory exhaust. Rear muffler has a butterfly in it. You could always try your luck with the Varex and if cop pulls you up say your car is a Type S and so came with an exhaust with a butterfly as standard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...