Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey chumps.

Can anyone identify, what this is (see attached images), i CBF'd trying to trace it back to the ECU.

It has JECS stamped on it, if that helps.

I got rear ended about 3 months ago, got the car back, dead battery, gah, then once i got the car running it wouldn't idle, sometimes it would idle for about 30 seconds drop around 650rpm then just die, cough cough cough.

After cleaning out the AAC valve, which kind of helped it still didn't fix the issue.

Then i remembered the beater mentioning that he found a plug loose in the boot, i just ignored it, assuming it was from the antenna which i ripped out ages ago.

However i plugged the lil bastard in and what do ya know, my car idles again, however to the effect that it now hunts, which it never used to before.

But if anyone with an insight into this lil device, would make my day, because it's given me the shits.

Keep it Sidewayz kidz :D

I personally think its some sort of resistor as it has a moulded rubber backing. But i'm just spitballing.

post-81730-0-66019200-1325667501_thumb.jpg

post-81730-0-63024600-1325667507_thumb.jpg

post-81730-0-24705900-1325667512_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387219-wtf-is-this-m8/
Share on other sites

Looks like a fuel pump dropping resistor. It slows the speed down of the fuel pump under idle conditions most likely for noise, emissions and wear on the pump. Sounds like a plausable reason for your fault thats for sure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387219-wtf-is-this-m8/#findComment-6175544
Share on other sites

Have a look if there is one in your engine bay. Passenger side on the strut tower housing. If there isn't, they may have re-wired it into the boot.

Edit: That might not be exactly it, but it's the exact shape and appears to be the same size. So as above, I'm guessing it's fuel related.

Edited by Truffles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387219-wtf-is-this-m8/#findComment-6175962
Share on other sites

ah k, my m8 who had done a rb25neo conversion in his r32 4 door, said its the injectors resistor :S, said he had to put the r34 one in for it to work.

Fuel pump dropping resister does seem to make more sense, cause it gives the same characteristics of a car that has no fuel.

All is well however, car is running beautifullly, the AAC has decided to resurrect itself , i cleaned the AFM and its not hunting any longer, and is much more repsonsive off the line now, no hesitation.

I highly recommend doing it it's made the car feel new again.

Thanks anyways guys :) Have an awesome new year!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387219-wtf-is-this-m8/#findComment-6176649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...