Jump to content
SAU Community

Right Indicator Problem

Everlong-S13

By Everlong-S13,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Everlong-S13 Community Regular

Everlong-S13

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I've done a search on this problem with similar posts but not quite the same symptoms so I thought I'd make a new one.

I've had indicator problems for a few weeks, on and off, currently the left indicator works fine but the right doesn't. Here are some symptoms:

  • Left indicator works fine, right doesn't
  • Disconnected front and rear looms to lights to try and narrow it down to an earth somewhere with no luck
  • Currently got a 20amp fuse to prevent fuse from blowing, makes high pitched noise when using right indicator
  • Got under the dash to find the relay switch, not sure what I was looking for but I following the clicking to a black box and it was really hot when using right indicator, located directly under steering wheel, above fuse box.
  • The dash indicator light (for right only) also doesn't work

Does this look like the flasher can is dodgey? Does it make sense that left works but right doesn't? If I rip it out, is it just a case of getting a new one, and where would you go to get one?

Any comments would be highly appreciative.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387752-right-indicator-problem/
Share on other sites
Everlong-S13 Community Regular

Everlong-S13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, OK so I got under and pulled out the indicator replay switch, and pulled it apart.

Here are some images of what I found. You can clearly see some burnt bits on the solder points on the bottom, and on the metal hook/staple looking thing on the other side.

My question is - is this the cause of the right indicator to screw up? Or is this the result of a short somewhere else which has caused the switch to burn? (Keep in mind I put a 20amp fuse in the fuse box)

can1o.jpg

can2h.jpg

Reason I ask is, I don't want to keep on destroying new relay switches!

Edited by Everlong-S13
  • 1 month later...
ZacZerbst Enthusiast

ZacZerbst

Posted
Posted

it could be a bad contact in you indicator switch off the steering coloum. had a similar problem in a patrol not long ago. cleaned it up and it hasnt played up yet. im not sure about in the skyline but be careful of springs if you decide to pull it apart as they can go flying and also be quite a difficult job putting it back together.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...