ZacZerbst

All fuses have been checked and relays like the ignition and fuel pump have been bridged with no success

R33 GTST no start A friend of mine has a R33 GTST SERIES 2 with a Haltech platinum pro ecu. The back story and whats been done. The car doesnt get driven much so often had to be jump started as the battery was flat. One day they went to jump start it and no go. The motor cranked but didnt fire. After some testing we found there was no spark, signal to fuel injectors or fuel pump. The ecu was sent back to haltech for testing. They upgraded the power supply and a few other things but found bo problems. When we got the ecu back we plugged it in and hoped for the best but still no go. It has an aftermarket immobilizer which im thinking is probably the next thing to look at unless anyone has some other suggestions Thanks

Hey everyone. to start with i have a 1990 r32 gtr. My problem i believe is that the syncros are worn. 4th gear making a fair crunch noise when selecting. I have read somewhere previously that people upgrade the internals of the 32 box with 33gtr parts. Does anyone know anything about this? Im not really interested in upgrading the gearing. I would just be looking at doing the syncros and bearings. So what im really asking is should i buy the parts for a 32 or are the syncros for a 33 a better option and will they fit without swapping everything out? Thanks in advance.

Get your air con checked out. If it wasnt flushed when the compressor was replaced it may have had oil and other contaminants in the line which have now blocked up the system. I have just fixed a honda crv that has a very similar sounding problem. It had excessive oil in the system and was causing the compressor to lock up and partially stalling the motor.

Im planning on taking it to a tuner when i get my tax back. Living 5 hours from any decent workshops doesnt make things easy. For now i think ill just leave it in the garage

Hey everyone. I have renently purchased an 1990 r32 gtr. When picking it up the owner mentioned that it was chiped and tuned over in japan and recommended taking it easy until I got it retuned for australian fuel standards. What i am wanting to know is if there is any way to tell if it has been chipped or not? I had a look at the ecu today and it had a sticker that said remanufactured ecu. But after a bit of a search i found that this didnt mean anything. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Well that makes sense. Thanks

Hey everyone. Can anyone tell me what the name of the product that is used where sheets of metal join in the engine bay and around the bottoms of the strut towers etc. Its painted but white underneath. Thanks

To test the motor you dont need the control box. Just get 2 pieces of wire connect one to the positive of your battery and one to the negative then connect the other ends of the wire to the terminals of the plug coming from the motor. And reverse the wires to go the other way.

It wont damage it. I was running mine through a switch in the dash for 6 month with frequent use and never had a single problem. Just hook the power wire power wire to one side and touch the negative on the other. If it moves then its not the motor if it doesnt try swapping the wires around. Still doesnt work it could be the remote or control unit. Does the light come on the remote when a button is pressed?

Hey everyone of SAU. im after some advice on the removal and refitting of a front wiper motor in a R33. obviously you undo the 4 bolts holding it in place but how do you go about where it attachs to the wiper arms, there doesnt appear to be any holes to get in behind it. cheers

Sprudo is quite right with what he is saying. Get your battery tested or even borrow one to test it. Another quick option would be to turn off your sound system and even disconnect any amps if easy to do so and then see if it still makes the noise

It will most likely be the switch. easiest thing would be to borrow someones and see if that fixes it. As for testing it you could use a multimeter set on ohms and check the connection in the door to the wires at the switch. If there is a reading for all the wires at the door then the problem isnt in the loom

re the front indicator globes 21w? If not that will be the reason for the electronic flasher unit. They are generally fitted when led lights are installed. Fitting a standard flasher unit will result in a fasy flash rate. Have you inspected the flasher unit as i have seen them short internally. The other thing would be to try your hazard light and see if that causes the fuse to blow.

You will have most likely have to pull the dash out and either replace the evaperator and expansion valve or get them flushed. By the looks of the picture you will most likely need a new compressor. This is due to the fact that when the hoses have been removed they havent blocked anything off. Personally if you really want the ac id replace everything. Compressor, condensor, receiver drier, evaperator, expansion valve and all pipes. It doesnt take much for an air con to have problems and from personal experience working with ac systems there will be a great deal of contamination in the system and without a full replacement it will continue cycling through the system giving endless problems.

Did you have to add much coolant to the radiator? Also did you notice if the temp gauge was reading hot. I would recommend getting a compression test done.

the exhaust gas light could mean you.have a blocked cat. if its majorly blocked it can csuse the car not to start

is posible that it is the motor if you can try holding the switch on and give the motor a tap with something. if it starts working then your motor is on its way out. is the window cable driven? if so make sure it hasnt come of the rollers and jammed up. the other option would be to disconnect the plug at the motor and put power to one side and earth to the other. if you can make your window work this way then your motor is fine.

could be a little worn try giggling the key as you turn it, works for me when my doors wont unlock. otherwise just break in or if you dony know how call your roadside assist for your state or a locksmith

Not sure about all states but in vic its illegal to have your car running when no one is right there with it. therefor making it a bit of a pointless thing

pull the door trim off and have a look. sounds like your electrics are working. could be jammed up or something

there is a spot for the relay and im pretty sure there is a loom to the switch. cant be sure on a loom to the lights i would think there would be though. have a look around the area for a plug that isnt connected

the stalk will bolt on. you will also need a relay. im not sure if there is a loom running down to the lights though. its probably taped up so somewhere there is also an additional plug that needs to be pluged in at the stalk

If you have a test light turn you fog lights on and check for power at the back of the light. if you dont have power its not an earth problem. If you have someone there to help you can also have them hold the horn on and check for power at the horn. just because you hear the realy clicking doesnt mean it is actually working. best way to check is to remove the relay and using the test light you should have 2 power sources with the lights on and one earth. Then if possible place the relay back in but not all the way and see if you can put your test light onto the terminal that didnt have power. if it has power the relay is working. if not probably faulty. If you do have power coming out stat following the lool and look for a broken wire or a disconnected plug

does anyone know the part number for the rear transmission mount for an automatic r33 gts series 1