Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently my TCS off and Slip light turned on when i started my car one day, after a few days it went off, but a few days after that it came back on.

After doing a few searches, it seems to be a common problem with the R34's if the coilpacks need replacing, but after bridging the consult port and getting the error code, i am getting a code 17 which in its definition states: "ABS-TCS Control Unit - Throttle control unit detects malfunction in the system. (open throttle sensor harness etc). TCS/ABS control unit detects malfunction. Which im not quite sure what action to take to fix it?

Im pretty sure that if it were the coilpacks it would be giving a 21 error code, so before forking out the $600 odd dollars(that could go to a lot more useful mods that actually increase performance), does this mean there is something else wrong with my car?

Physically driving the car there doesnt seem to be anything wrong with it, i might be imagining a slight decrease in power, but nothing drastic, and the traction control is definately turned off (which isnt suprising given the TCS OFF and SLIP light) but other then that it drives normal.

Any help would be appreciated guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388049-r34-tcs-slip-light/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update, the issue has finally been fixed.

Whitey at EFI figured out that the actual traction control unit was faulty, it was no longer doing its start up sequence of closing and opening the throttle which then threw the lights up.

Was lucky enough to have another r34 in the workshop that just took his throttle body/tcs off to install a forward facing plenum, gave him a quick call and agreed to let it go for $70

I ended up just switching the traction control motors (instead of the whole throttle body) was fairly straight forward, some of the screws are hard to get by, and have to be careful not to strip the old things, but other then that, no dramas

Anyways, i just thought i'd share, if you are having the same problem, might be worth your while to check if this is the problem before you go fork out $500 odd dollars for some new coilpacks which is the most common suggested fix out there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...