Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't let me detract from your sale, this is a very nice car, i looked at the website.

Correct me if i am wrong, but, according to the dyno chart, that power output was made at 25psi at a theoretical speed of 185km/h.

That would explain the big power output from such limited mods.

Is that an aftermarket sunroof too ??

All in all, good car for the money, good luck with the sale.

Mr Rb20 No dude. See how there is 2 black lines and 2 red lines, one set of lines is for how many kw and for how much boost is running at that time. The red lines read 185kws at 8 psi and the black reads 201kw at 12psi. Also see as the car gets to 201kw the boost that its running drops down close to 10psi, wich is natural for it to do.

Don't let me detract from your sale, this is a very nice car, i looked at the website.

Correct me if i am wrong, but, according to the dyno chart, that power output was made at 25psi at a theoretical speed of 185km/h.

That would explain the big power output from such limited mods.

Is that an aftermarket sunroof too ??

All in all, good car for the money, good luck with the sale.

Hell NO 25psi, my turbo would have been out the exhuast at that much psi dude...

This is a standard turbo and computer not even a SAFC no bullshit with a proper upgrade front mount with exhaust at max 13psi producing 201kw.

Fair enough. That's were the big power comes from then, shoot out mode reads a lot higher than tune. It's supposed to be for 'shoot outs' (duh) and consistent across different dynos, but people change setttings etc. and it makes it unconsistent which makes it hard to say how much power it really produces... that said a mate of mine had his VK 308 dyno'd in shoot out mode and it put down 158rwkws which would be very close to engine power not rear wheel power. Nice car mate anyways mate, still interested in it. Could you please send pics to my email? [email protected]

Just I can't see them here. It's blocked on my end.

ALT 18" WITH 265 AT THE REAR 245 AT THE FRONT.

MY PRICE IS NOT INCREASING....I JUST DONE SOME RESEARCH ON THE NET AND I REALISED THE PRICE THAT I WAS ASKING FOR IS A BIT LOW WITH ALL MY MODS, ACCESSORIES AND CONDITION OF THE CAR SO I DECIDED TO BUMP IT UP 1g

don't you know skylines appreciate with time......jus wait till u actually go and see the car he'll probably jack it up more..... its a collectors model with extra high head rest adjustment :usuck: and its also gts-t now how rare are they these days be quick boys jus been valued by nissan they sounded really keen on it!!!

u guys who are saying 201 is really high, well dynos are really meant for tuning, and its well known that figures vary a lot between dynos, so u cant say 201 is too high, because in that case, why is it too high? where is your control point?

just as a guide (not to take away from how powerful the car may be...)

most people say that a gts-t with just a cat back is good for about 130rwkw.. well at the place that ron15h had his dyno done, (unigroup if im not mistaken) they say that most near stock gts-ts produce around 145-155 rwkw.

i got my car dynoed there.. 96 gts-t with in box filter, and (resrictive because of defect) cat back exhaust. the figure was 165rwkw..

so you could say that this car for sale is capable of producing around 20% more power than stock. this would be an easier way to measure things up rather than dyno figures from all over the place :(

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...