Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those calipers originally come off a 280mm disc. Without using any adapters they will only suit a 280mm disc. If you use them on a 324mm disc they will need to be spaced outward (radially) using adapters. Note also, that a given caliper and pad really only suits a certain disc size (or at least a narrow range of disc sizes). The shape of the caliper's curve follows the outer cicumference of the rotor. If it is curved to suit a small disc, then it will tend toward hanging off the edge of a larger disc near the middle of the pad. I think that there are adapters to suit the R32 caliper onto 324mm disc, but I don't know what the resulting sweep of the pad over the disc looks like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6198702
Share on other sites

I've seen sumitomo calipers sitting over variety of rotor sizes using spacers. The most common conversion is 280->324 rotor for obvious reasons, but there are more options out there. Whether they're worth doing is debatable, but since you asked about different options and the biggest possible rotor, here goes:

- There are adapters for 330x32mm rotors, front rotors off V36 skyline/skyline crossover are probably the cheapest option in that size, but you can use two-piece rotors with 332x32 brembo or stoptech friction rings with custom hats.

- Then there are adapters intended for 334x30mm rotors off a lexus GS. Rotor requires slight modifications.

- Adapters for 340mm rotors I saw once were a one-off item, so worth mentioning only because it can be done.

- UAS had an adapter kit to use with 343mm two-piece rotors, but it's apparently no longer available

- There are kits that use 345x32mm rotor off a Merc ML55 AMG, see attached pic. Silvias had 280x30 front brakes from factory, just like the ones you bought, but with steel calipers, so the pic is relevant. Rotors are cheap but have to be modified.

- The biggest kit I've ever seen was R34 Gtt caliper (310x30mm factory size, pad shape same as yours) sitting over V36 skyline sport 355x32mm rotor, see second and third attached pics

For rears there are spacers for GTR34 322 rotors, V36 330mm and 350mm rotors

post-36390-0-26788500-1327180478_thumb.jpg

post-36390-0-16429400-1327180525_thumb.jpg

post-36390-0-12740700-1327180564_thumb.jpg

Edited by Legionnaire
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6198969
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

You would't want to - they weight a tonne each (I think it's mass is close to 14kg, but can measure when I have time), offest is wrong for most wheel designs, and they require 18" wheels. Also you can use smaller rotors and get just as good braking as with these - cooling and pads with higher friction are your friends. There is a guy here who races his R32 with R34GTT calipers and factory-sized rotors.

Other than that - yes, as per GTSBoy's post, caliper adapters are needed. 280->324mm adapters might work, and you'll 100% have to file the edges of your calipers to make them sit lower on the rotor, see attach

post-36390-0-16959000-1331723885_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6274639
Share on other sites

Depends on what result you're really after. If higher brake torque and faster deceleration is what you desire, then starting with rotor size is a poor approach.

If you enjoy the look of massive and shiny chunk of cast iron behind the rims, then it's a good way (not as good as two piece rotors, but still not bad), but keep wheel size and offset considerations in mind.

If you want both, then you're in for big buck expenditure :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6274827
Share on other sites

Rofl. You're telling me.

I'm at the end of my wits with Endless, Brembo, etc... So expensive...

Don't get me wrong, one day I'll have 8k-10k of brakes under there, but for now, I'd be happy with stopping power... having said that, tiny rotors will look balls under the 18' TE's. :(

Edit:

Looks like I'll just be getting good (although still 310mm) rotors and good pads and leaving it at that for now...

Edited by Idaten
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6274848
Share on other sites

You don't necessarily have to spend 8-10K on the brakes in order to have nice calipers and good braking, you just have to do a bit of research and think outside the box a little.

E.g. a set of rear calipers off an Audi R8 would make a good upgrade for the fronts - just an example.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6275028
Share on other sites

I'll admit I'd never have thought of that, but that's probably because it's SO far out of the box.

Honestly, without a million different cars sitting next to mine to test fit, I'd have no idea which calipers would fit. Just a bit vague in that area. Probably why I was opting for bolt-ons.

I love the suggestion though and will try to search the web for some different examples.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6276248
Share on other sites

A few general tips on what to look for:

1)you'll unlikely find something that would bolt straight up to the hub, so look for calipers that have radial mount holes (parallel to rotor surface), not axial mounts. This makes adapters much easier and cheaper to fabricate

2)look for calipers that take common and readily available pad shape. There is no point in buying a set of calipers and then discover that you have to order a set of pads from the only place that sells them half the earth away, and you need to sell your kidney to buy them and wait for a couple of months for delivery.

3)look for calipers that has variety of pad compounds available for it. This is not exactly same as previous point, because not all common pad shapes have high-performance pads available. And vice versa - not all common pad shapes are available in street compounds.

4)look out for pad friction patch (also known as radial depth, pad swept area, annulus, etc), as a pad too wide/too narrow/oddly shaped can limit your selection of rotors big time

5)look out for rotor thickness and diameter that calipers are intended for. This can also limit your rotor options or effectively make your brake "upgrade" an actual downgrade, say when you buy beautiful calipers that take rotor only 16mm thick

6)calipers should be common enough (or use internals that are common) to be easily rebuildable/refurbishable. Calipers that cost, say, 2k new, can be found for 500 in average or poor shape, but will perform just like new when you throw two $50 rebuild kits at them

Well, those are the gudelines. And try to do lots of reading and develop general understanding for brakes, so you could understand what you really need and why, and tell whether a particular set of calipers is suitable for you. SAU contains wealth of knowledge on the topic, but is not the only source of info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388962-rotor-size/#findComment-6276253
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...