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Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do. -
Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid. If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it. Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap? I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly. To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way? Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke. -
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Almost any ECU would work, from a 30 yr old PowerFC to a new Motec/Autronic. But presumably you want new middle of the road ECU, meaning that you want a Haltech or a Link, most likely. As to which model though? I dunno. I don't keep track of what they have in their current ranges. You don't want a plug in though, because plug ins can start to cause you the same wiring issues that you have to chase up with your stock ECU/loom swaps when an engine transplant is involved. If you use a Haltech (and presumably a Link) you could put the base map for the engine in and drive it around and not even need to "tune" it. It will work just fine. I can't recommend a tuner without a location (and even then I can't recommend many, being as I never use any tuners except myself and my brother-in-law). And not many tuners are happy to remote tune. Maybe they'd be happier doing it for a basically stock setup that just needs to be demonstrated to be working properly. But even then, not being able to be with the car to see what the hell is going on and sort out the inevitable problems that will result from an engine conversion done by an amateur..... unlikely to be enthusiastic about the job. And if you think that just adding 2 wires for the boost sensor is difficult - you don't want to be trying to install and set up an aftermarket ECU. You're going to have to bite down hard on something with either approach. -
By deuceforty2 · Posted
wired everything up and confirmed that the red with white stripe is indeed the fuel pump pin on this harness.
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