Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Had my r34 for 6 months now, Enjoying it as it is and ive finally got it running as i want, Cleared the EPA notice and I have some spare money floating around.

I want to start modding the engine before i start on some cosmetic mods.

Where do i start?!

ive already upgraded the FMIC, BOV, Catback exhaust and manual boost controller, Apart from that the car is stock.

Ive heard theres some "Unrestricting" That can be done, but not sure what exactly that involves.

I dont want to get to excessive, 250-280 KW Is my goal, i figured it would still be fun for trackdays, anymore than that i beleive is a waste especially the way the laws are now.

Ive done a little research regarding ECU's and tunes, injectors, fuel pumps, lines, coil packs and turbo upgrades.

Just not sure what would be the most economical for power gains.

So anyone with a little knowledge on early upgrades or even anyone thats done it before (I know theres a few of you!!) any insight or knowledge would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Daniel.

P.S Not sure if this is in the right section either :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/
Share on other sites

Hypergear highflow which can be run with all your standard parts(injectors, coils(depending), afm) but as always the ECU will need to be changed and if you are doing an ECU, I'd also do the AFM. Cheapest way to possibly push about 220rwkw.

My injectors maxed just over 200rwkw and the clutch shat itself too >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213052
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213071
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

I paid well over $1000 for my clutch from memory and that included fitting it myself.... They have come down a lot in price now but last i saw they were still about double that price you mentioned.... R34 have the big pull type clutches unlike the R33 :happy:

I fit the genuine Exedy cushioned button and it is an awesome clutch, drives like standard too.... However after the next tune i dont know what its life expectancy is as they are only rated to 330rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213076
Share on other sites

How is there a power difference between an atmo and a recirculating set up? Sorry for the dumb question.

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213148
Share on other sites

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213152
Share on other sites

I think that was directed to the legal side of things.

I can vouch for a HKS GTRS, but they are pricey. As others have said, cant go wrong with a highflow. Never had personal experince, but a read through the rb25 dyno thread shows good promise.

I wasn't overly happy with my High Flow as it was laggy and had heat issues if you gave it a hard time.... Yes, that is partially due to the tuner being mildly retarded but it made similar power to other cars but just didn't have the same feel....... There are now so many bolt on options available that i would find it hard to justify a high flow......... That being said, i have seen plenty of awesome results listed up on here, but my experience was less than impressive.

So i went high mount 3037-56T :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213232
Share on other sites

Haha, yeah i heard and read the lag was an issue. They arent bad for the price though.

Yeah im looking forward to fitting up a gtx3076r on my build. Should see some good numbers on a 2.8 :)

What size housing do you have?

.82 sitting on a 6Boost with Tial gate and plazmaman intake, cooler and TB, should be fun :thumbsup:

The high flow that was on mine when i bought it was ridiculously expensive, i wont post the reciept as it has the original owners details and dont want them online without him knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213353
Share on other sites

Nice setup :) proven results too.. Good for ~300rwkw from what i know? Really? Was it a gcg high flow? Haha nah all good, definately understandable.

Is that on a stock capacity 2.5? How do you find the response?

Both "full boost by.." and the "on-off" throttle response?

Ty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213407
Share on other sites

There is no power difference. The BOV has no impact on power making ability. Except.....

Externally venting BOVs do not work well with cars that use an air flow meter to measure the load. If you engine management system still uses the AFM, and if you intend to keep using an AFM into the future (ie if you go with Nistune or PowerFC as management choice) then you DO NOT WANT a venting BOV. They cause metered air to escape the system, but the ECU doesn't know the air got out so it still injects the fuel for it, causing nasty overfuelling at times when the BOV vents (ie, at gearchanges or any time you back off of boost, say in a corner where you've lost traction and want it back).

Recirculating BOVs are the only thing that makes sense with AFM management. More to the point, there's no point in replacing the factory BOV with another recirculating BOV because that's just money wasted, as the factory BOV works fine.

Even more to the point, the factory BOV is in fact a compressor bypass valve as much as it is a BOV. What this means is that it is open at light loads, allowing the air that the engine draws in to go around the turbo compressor. This unloads the compressor and allows it to spool up faster (same exhaust amount and pressure driving the turbine, but less mass flowing through the compressor). A small, but worthwhile thing to have. As you come up towards zero vacuum, the BOV closes, the compressor flows all the air and no-one's the wiser.

cheers

Thanks for that mate, I couldn't understand how venting to atmo would make any difference in power figures, I didn't understand why the comment was there, I thought the fella that said it was implying that one way was better than another for making power (obviously you don't want your car running rich every time you change gears, lol).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213415
Share on other sites

Some people here have managed close to 240rwkw from standard injectors, its pushing it but it can be done. For about $150 - $200 you can get the standard ones high flowed to 600 - 800cc.

Ahh I almost forgot the clutch. Generally anything above 180rwkw will send this thing smoking. Factor in another $450 parts for the clutch.

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213652
Share on other sites

My stock clutch held 260kw and a clutch is around 800+ for a decent one

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213683
Share on other sites

How the f**k did it manage that? I had something slightly better than stock(the exedy clutch OE replacement) let go at stock with tune etc at about 180rwkw.

Now Ive got a 5 puk carbotic button clutch, holds all my power fine, grabs even on the dump. $385 for the clutch, pedal isn't too stiff either.

The main point is, for Danial (Thread starter) to upgrade the car to 260-280 the clutch will need to be decent and the cost of the 34GTT clutch is significantly higher than that of the 33GTST

33 clutches are quite cheap, it seems EVERYTHING you try to do on a 34 costs more, most parts are slightly different yet cost more :domokun:

But the mods are well worth it as the 34 is an excellent choice to modify as they are an awesome car!

And i am not biased in any way :ph34r:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213695
Share on other sites

what you should look at is a garrett 3071R bolt on, some injectors (buy new ones so you know they are right i didnt and they flowed shit and have to buy some new ones pinch.gif ) dump pipe to cat and highfflow cat converter, mate that with a haltech PS2000 for a MAFless tune and see 280KW no worries and all the gear is there if you want to upgrade later :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390110-whats-next/#findComment-6213706
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...