Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been interstate for the week, and the car has been sitting. Come home and it's flat - opened up the battery to see exposed plates, my bad! Topped it up yesterday and chucked it on the charger, Reckon it got about 6 hours last night and another hour or so this morning.

Went to start it - no go. Looked at the power guage, and it was showing just over 6 volts. Chucked the multimeter on the battery terminals and it was around 11.5v. How accurate is the power gauge in the car? Reckon the problem is actually the battery?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391312-m35-volt-gauge/
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how good the power gauge on the stagea is but I'd say your battery is farked, I found exposed plates in my wifes car (merc) and topped it up but ended up replacing the battery a few weeks later because it wouldn't hold a charge any more. I too saw a decent reading off the battery with a multimeter but as soon as I put any load on it by cranking the volts just fell away and it wouldn't start.

How old is the battery? Any swelling on the sides?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391312-m35-volt-gauge/#findComment-6229081
Share on other sites

11.5 volts still isn't enough for a battery in good condition; I'd say she's rooted.

When mine started to get that low; it started throwing airbag faults and CEL faults. Replaced the battery, reset the faults; all was fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391312-m35-volt-gauge/#findComment-6229116
Share on other sites

Ok so, This similar thing happened to me

1st time I didnt drive my car for about 4 days. JUST sat there. went to start it. no dice... I just jumped to the conclusion stock battery was f**ked and got a new one.. started fine...

Then recently, I didnt drive it for about 4 days again... Didnt start. took a lil portable jumpstarter with me for 1 day and had to jump it everytime...

I thought it was weird because i got a multimeter on it and it was showing 12.9 volts.

Decided to loosen the terminals... remove them off... Push the brake to take out any excess charge in the car... and reconnect..

STARTED FINE!!!

must be like some gay as hell immobiliser? or something?

If you still have your old battery it would be good to see if you tried it, if it would work since its bee removed!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391312-m35-volt-gauge/#findComment-6238441
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...