Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Looking at buying an engine from Japan and compression results came out at:

Cylinder

1 - 9.3

2 - 9.5

3 - 9.5

4 - 8.5

5 - 9.5

6 - 9.5

9.5 is equivalent to 135psi if I remember correctly (realise some may say this is low, b/c it should be about 150-160psi). However, my big worry is cylinder 4 with lower compression than the other 5.

Your help and opinion would be appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392265-compression-test-results/
Share on other sites

Hi,

Looking at buying an engine from Japan and compression results came out at:

Cylinder

1 - 9.3

2 - 9.5

3 - 9.5

4 - 8.5

5 - 9.5

6 - 9.5

9.5 is equivalent to 135psi if I remember correctly (realise some may say this is low, b/c it should be about 150-160psi). However, my big worry is cylinder 4 with lower compression than the other 5.

Your help and opinion would be appreciated. Thanks.

sounds like a tired motor, does it have cams or alot of aftermarket work done?

135 is a little bit tired, but I wouldn't worry about that too much. However you're correct about cylinder 4, there's a bit much variation there. Can you get a wet test done? Would stay away myself.

sounds like a tired motor, does it have cams or alot of aftermarket work done?

It's a stroker motor, ported head, 272s, etc. Reputable builder and seller that's the main reason I'm even considering it haha

135 is a little bit tired, but I wouldn't worry about that too much. However you're correct about cylinder 4, there's a bit much variation there. Can you get a wet test done? Would stay away myself.

Exactly, if it was 135 across all I wouldn't be too fussed could just do with a freshen up. Can't do a leak down, only have compression results to go by = (

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...