Jump to content
SAU Community

2RISMO smashes into the 11's

nv033

By nv033,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
R31Nismoid:  See above.  I think you're getting confused with nitrous oxide's tendency to reduce inlet temps.  It does quite the opposite to the exhaust gases, increasing them dramatically.

I'm wondering how the exhaust wheel is holding up too but now it doesn't really concern me as I have achieved what I set out to with it :rant:

thanks :rant:

I wasnt confused, just didnt know what it was like on the 'out' as opposed to the 'in' (which i know) :cheers:

You must have one freak of a turbo! :rant:

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
You must have one freak of a turbo!

I can't see why?!?! It gets operated at 1.0 bar for 11 seconds (if that) at hotter than normal temps and then has plenty of time to cool down. It makes no more power without gas than any other std turbo running at this boost level (195kw) so I guess I'm just lucky.

LOL brett hasnt hired you for launchin classes yet ? : Þ

No cos he knows i'm an arsey prick! lol .... I might never be able to manage a 1.6 again. More gas and 1.7's though.....there's a thing :rant:

Adrian

matlowth Proficient

matlowth

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply!

Certainly am... I didn't think it was possible for the GTST's to get under a 1.8 60ft time without slicks! :D

As said before - well done and a great time!

So is there anything else coming on the car (more NOS perhaps)? :D

Cheers,

matt

There. Happy now? :D

Adrian

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I can't see why?!?!  It gets operated at 1.0 bar for 11 seconds (if that) at hotter than normal temps and then has plenty of time to cool down.  It makes no more power without gas than any other std turbo running at this boost level (195kw) so I guess I'm just lucky.

Yeah, true point.

I guess as long as you give it ample time to cool and dont go back out for another quick successive run it probably would last a while!

Whoneedstherapy Veteran

Whoneedstherapy

Posted
Posted

Congrats on the times adrian :)

it's good to see someone's taking a different approach than most! and big congrats on the 60 footer, 1.6's on a street car is awesome :)

it'll be interesting to see how the bottom end holds out with some increasingly bigger shots :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...