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Yeh all my lines are braided. From memory the block thread is M14x1.5. Speedflow make a banjo fitting that works, but don't use it. Banjo fittings can suck it. Better to use a M14x1.5 to -6 straight adapter and then whatever fittings you need from there.

Well, serviced the car last night and it drove perfectly to the tuners this morning. Fingers crossed it all goes ok, plan is for the tuner to have a look at it, see what I've done and then give me a call to let me know how it goes ahead from there. With any luck it will be done tomorrow, though I know better than that to bank on it.

As for goals, ill be happy if it drives well and makes it back over 350rwhp. Not expecting more than that.

Just spent 25 minutes on the phone with Danny discussing my setup before he does the flex fuel tune. Wanted to know everything and anything, from how I wired the flex fuel sensor and pinned it to the ECU, to how I setup my cams, to what cat is on it. It's this phoning me and asking me questions and talking to me that gives me so much confidence in taking my car to him, no other place I've been has ever asked anything about the car other than what ECU it has. He even asked me to send him a copy of the dyno sheet from my last tune so he can overlay it with other cars using the same turbo as me, to see if he can spot anything wrong.

So it's so far so good. He said he is starting the car now, so will keep me updated via text messages on what he is doing and how the car is going.

Well, scratch that. Off to pick up the car now, but not for the reason I had hoped...

Tuner called me at about 6:30 this morning to inform me that after spending an hour on the phone with Link, he has worked out that the Link actually doesn't support a true flex fuel setup. They only support the ethanol sensor as an input for a 4th axis, so you can do your fuel and timing maps with ethanol percentage as a correction. But that means to do a flex fuel setup, you would need to tune the fuel and timing maps at 5% increments from 0% E85 to 100% E85. Which would be hugely expensive to do. But then there is also no correction on the Link for cold start enrichment, etc. You can only have the settings for one fuel there. Link's solution is to set those things up half way between each fuel, but really that just makes the car hard to start on all fuels. So even if you did tune the car at 5% increments all through the range, it still wouldn't be a true flex fuel setup because the other settings don't have corrections for ethanol %.

So the car will still go ahead on E85, but it won't be flex fuel. It will be tuned for between 60%-90% ethanol to allow for the variation in the pump fuel, but I can still only run E85. If I want to use unleaded fuel again then I'll have to purge the tank and upload the current tune. So I essentially have a very expensive, little bit fancier, Power FC. Fkn awesome.

Anyway, after deciding what to do there, my tuner discussed with me what to do about the low power and lag. He is 99% sure that the cam timing is still out. So I am off to pick the car up now to re-check the cam timing. All in all, not the news I wanted to be getting about the car today. More money ill-spent.

Have you seen SS8_Gohan's thread about flex fueling. He has a link plugin on his 34 might be slightly different with GTRs. Also I talked to Unigroup engineering and they said its possible to be a true flex fuel. Might just be a lil trick your tuner needs to learn to get it going. I hope thats not the same case with my VIPEC.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366722-e8598-flex-fuel-mission-complete-thanks-to-chequered-tuning/

Yes I've seen it, but that's not a true flex setup. It has been manually set up at each ethanol percentage increment, which is hugely expensive in dyno time. It was an be done, but it's not affordable. Would be cheaper and easier to but the Haltech and set that up.

Nice solution to fixing the broken push lock fitting on the fuel tank. I did the same and drilled both of mine out so I could run bulkhead fittings with AN ends so I can run teflon straight in and out of the tank. Sealed up with some silicon sealant and it works a treat.

Sucks to hear about the Link's flex setup not being ideal, the Haltech method is definitely proven and works well. :)

Just noticed you put your flex sensor in the exact same spot as mine also! haha couldnt think of a better place for it..

E6wbNbEl.jpg

Haha nice! Its definitely a good spot, nice and easy! What did you do about the jet pump on the fuel lid? From what I understand, thus acts as a venturi for getting fuel from the tank on the other side of the hump to the pump side. That's why I didn't do the return fitting at the same time.

I put a hose barb on the return fitting inside the tank and connected the transfer pipe to that with a Y joiner. Hopefully it works as per the factory venturi thing...

like this Sard thing.. http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/engine/images/sardjetpumpkiller-BIG.jpg

Well that was a big waste of time. Rechecked my cam timing using my tuners method of measuring cam duration at 50 thou valve lift, then finding the centreline. This is a very repeatable method so easy to check for errors. But with this method, I got 121.5° on the inlet cam and 116.5° on the exhaust cam. They are supposed to be 120 and 115, so they were a tiny bit out but nothing that explains the problem.

Poor tuner sat on the phone with me late last night and early this morning going over things, he just had to drop off his kids at school now and I'm expecting a call back from him shortly. Absolutely mammoth effort from him to make sure I am doing things correctly, so now we are at least both confident that the cam timing is not the issue and we can go from here. Leaves us both very confused about where the missing power and lag is.

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