Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i wanted to get your input, I'm looking at an r33 and thinking about buying it however it has had an intercooler fitted with no return pipes. So yes it has had the chassis cut and run above the radiator.

Wat r up options to make this legal:

Engineer cert

Return to stock and cover hole

Return flow intercooler and cover hole

Anything else and would this cost to get it done?

Thanks in advanced

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395532-intercooler-pipe/
Share on other sites

I bought one with a setup like that and I got f**ked over. Id suggest if you bought it swap the fmic for a return flow one straight away and get the hole covered up. The standard smic gets heat soaked pretty bad. I got my hole properly welded up by a guy in the city for like 500 but that came with the required vacc cert with it, I imagine getting it covered up just so cops won't see won't cost as much. I got a return flow fmic from jj for I think 450, sell the fmic on it ATM for a few hunj.. U might be better off finding one that doesn't have the hole but depends on the rest of the cars condition I guess. My 0.02c anyways

I bought one with a setup like that and I got f**ked over. Id suggest if you bought it swap the fmic for a return flow one straight away and get the hole covered up. The standard smic gets heat soaked pretty bad. I got my hole properly welded up by a guy in the city for like 500 but that came with the required vacc cert with it, I imagine getting it covered up just so cops won't see won't cost as much. I got a return flow fmic from jj for I think 450, sell the fmic on it ATM for a few hunj.. U might be better off finding one that doesn't have the hole but depends on the rest of the cars condition I guess. My 0.02c anyways

Yer mate, definitely don't intend on keeping it there, would remove it ASAP.

Did you pay 500 for the weld and still had to change to a return flow cooler? Wow that is pretty expensive!

I think I paid about 500 for the vacc cert which included the welding, but it was about 2 years ago do I've forgotten now. Happened 4 weeks after buying the car too -.- I went to a r34 smic when that happened but eventually swapped to the return flow.

sorry to go abit off topic, but changing the cooler pipes (or even intake into turbo) from the rubber ones to metal... is that legal?

You're allowed 1 intake mod, so a fmic kit you can have as long as you're air filter, bov, intake pipe are all standard, last I checked anyway...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...