Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i'm not a mechanic, nor have i pulled down a RB before, but i have taken off the cover for the timing belt, and they almost look like the locators for the backing plate behind the timing belt to attach to the block, but like i said, i wouldn't know for sure

The head is sitting square and in the right position I removed a couple of head studs to check, but I won't take the risk of it shifting under heavy load its been 4 years since i drove my gtr and god i miss it, ive just been down to gm Motorsport in melton and bought my self a 1.69oz tube of arp assembly lube enough to build the motor 20 times! So off to the workshop for another tear down

Cheers cam

They are definately the head to block dowels, I installed mine just the other day and they were the same (with the split). I also used ARP studs with them. I would definately take the head back off and install them.

The motor is still on the engine stand, I prob used the stud kit as alignment and not thought twice, the r33 engine manual has no mention of there being locating dowels which is why I may have over looked it, guess what I'm doing this weekend then god damn it!!, unless you guys think the arp stud kit would line the head up enough?or best not to risk it?

  • 2 months later...

After 4 years of slowly gathering parts for my rb26 im finally putting her back together(spun bearings) 4 years is a long time and cannot remember for the life of me where the hell these go!!they where in the same zip lock bag the 3 bolts for the lower front cover was in but cant see them being used for the front cover, hope some one can reconize these 2 sleeves i guess you would call them? and save me having to pull the motor apart again!

cheers campost-4531-0-08670400-1333005137_thumb.jpg

Did you work out where they go?

I had lower front cover off... also the entire intake side and water pump. Have ti all back together and have these two suckers left over! Would rather not have to do it again.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...