Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI,

Im not sure if this is where i ask for help, opinoins and questions but here we go.

I have R32 GTR and would like to upgrade my brakes. A mate of mine has a set of 2010 Ford FPV Brembo calipers that hes thinking of selling and i know ill need to make a braket to make the bolt up but will the work?

Any help would be appriciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396361-2010-ford-fpv-brembo-brakes/
Share on other sites

any place that does brake stuff should be able to answer that for you and tell you the pros and cons for doing so. prob will fit, but your talking about the 6 piston 1's right? so you'll need atleast 18's, prob even 19's to fit those brakes under your wheels, if i were you i'd check clearance first. keep that in mind

The ford brembo calipers will require a 1inch master cylinder and some drastic changes to proportioning if your retaining the original rear calipers.

A cheap option they may apear to be but once you factor in the $6-800 for adaptors, $2-300 for a master cylinder,$1-200 for new front lines, $8-1000 for apropriate rotors (factory ford rotors won't work due to the ofset) $2-300 to correct the bias issue.

It actually works out more economical to buy a kit designed for the nissan

First of all - do you know piston sizes of the calipers? They may be useless for you.

Second - you can always buy them and let them lie on a shelf while you're getting yourself all necessary components, including rear upgrade, a bargain is still a bargain. Not an option if you want a quick solution though.

As per the others. I am guessing about the size of the 6pots, but having measured up the 4 pots their pistons are waaaay bigger then F50s which are borderline too big themselves. So F50s are 44mm and 40mm pistons, and from memory the Fords were 48mm and 44mm. So you would assume that the 6 pots offer the same piston area as Ford woudl not have re-engineered the master cylinders, pedal ratio etc for the same model car but with an updated 6 pot Brembo vs 4 pot Brembo (that is an assumption, but I dont think its too long a bow to draw)

So it makes no sense to use Ford calipers on a Nissan. Nissans have all the brake balance and force you will ever need just with a pad upgrade. What you are trying to do is get more consistancy out of the brakes and larger pistons dont do anything for you in this regard, you need more rotor and cooling, in turn this often means you need similar or smaller pistons depending on what you are doing on your rears.

To give you an idea just how fussy the balance can be when you sway too far from the more proven kits....have a look at this vid below. I had just removed my Brembo F40s and was half way through engineering up my custom 343mm Stoptech 4 pot kit when a skidpan day came up. Not wanting to miss out I threw my std R32 GTR calipers and rotors back on the front.

So this means the fronts were 296mm rotors with Sumitomo calipers which have 40.4mm pistons. The rears were Brembos with 300mm rotors and 40mm pistons. Now these rear brakes normally run with front calipers that have the bigger pistoned calipers up front in 44mm and 38mm pistons. So what I was running with was calipers 3%smaller then usual at the front...the result

Now what you would be doing running the Ford calipers is running about 25% more than usual caliper area. So you can see problems on the horizon >_<

And an old favourite post of mine from something like 2002. If you are thinking about an upgrade its important to understand the following just so you dont have unrealistic expectations of what a brake upgrade is going to achieve other then cost you thousands :thumbsup:

Car & Driver did a test on brake upgrades. Test Car was a WRX (US Spec which only uses two piston sliding caliper, not as good as Nissan 4 spot or later Model WRX 4 pots)

So tested kits were, std car, std car with upgraded pads and fluid, Brembo F50 Kit, Brembo Lotus Kit (Similar to as fitted to GTRs, 44/38mm pistons), Stoptech kit and Prodrive Kit (Alcon)

Stopping Distances 70mph - 0 , 3 Stop

Brembo F50;________________ 185 / 183 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________ 200 / 196

Prodrive; __________________ 198 / 194

StopTech;__________________ 187 / 186

Stock; ____________________ 205 / 196

Stck with pads and fluid; ______187 / 184

The above figures are all in feet, one stop difference between pad and fluid upgrade and crappy std sliding caliper brake setup and massive Brembos is 1 ft...lol 30cms. And over 3 stops the average is 2 ft...lol 60cms

So you can see the one stop max of the upgraded pads and fluid is damn good when you consider the $$$ to % difference.

Stopping Distances 100mph - 0 , 25 Stop

Brembo F50; ______________ 299 / 288 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________305 / 294

Prodrive; __________________ 308 / 295

StopTech;__________________ 297 / 290

Stock;_____________________ 340/317

Stck with pads and fluid;______316/299

Not the world of difference you would be led to believe from the "i sailed up the inside under brakes because my massive brakes allow me to brake so much later"

Specs of the kits:

Rotor Weight (pounds) Size in inches (diam / thk)

Brembo F50;.................15.8......................... .13.1 / 1.3

Brembo Lotus;..............12.9.......................... 12.9 / 1.1

Prodrive;......................16.5............... ............13.0 / 1.1

StopTech;...................13.9.................. ........12.9 / 1.1

Stock;.................. ......14.2..........................11.6 / 0.9

Caliper Weight , Piston Size, (mm)

Brembo F50;..........8.6 pounds...........40 / 44, Leading / Trailing

Brembo Lotus;.......6.8.......................36 / 40

Prodrive;...............9.1..................... 34.9 / 41.3

StopTech;.............9.3.....................36 / 40

Stock;.................10.8.................. .43 / 43

...and COST!!!

Brembo F50;.......................US$2,995

Brembo Lotus;.....................US$2,595

Prodrive;.............................US$1,999

StopTech;...........................US$1,695

Stock with pads & fluid;....... US$130

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...