Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Stalling Issue

bechopps

By bechopps,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

bechopps Contributor

bechopps

Posted
Posted

Ihave a m35 rs4 with vq25det.

Recently when idling at lights and etc , the car will go from a normal idle speed and with out any warning drop in revs. It will then stall or almost stall. If it doesnt stall it will just barely idle for ten seconds or so then return to normal. A jab of the excelerator brings it back too. It doesnt make a difference day or night and whether in gear or not. While it is idling slow ( rough) , i have notice black sooty smoke from the exhaust. I might be wrong but it also feels like there is a lack of boost when encouraged to do so,

Can people please tell me what i should be looking for to get this issue sorted, or give advice of any sort.

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396886-m35-stalling-issue/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I would try cleaning the throttle plate, they gum up quite badly. You would possibly need to do an idle learn afterward.

Its unusual that it does it sporadically, perhaps you should clean the AFM sensor too and check the plug for it is in tight. Are you running a paper air filter or a K+N?

ChrisB Rising Star

ChrisB

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem with a VW Golf once. It would stall sporadically at idle. Everyone said it was the air flow meter so at great expense, I changed it.

It made no difference.

Turned it was the throttle body was really dirty with gum and coke.

Removed the throttle body, cleaned it and the intake with carburetor cleaner. Problem solved, never ran better.

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

The newer cars with Electronic throttle bodies do not have an Idle bypass... so when oil residue builds up around the butterfly the throttle is almost 100% closed when you release the throttle thus almost stalling and air is sucked past the butterfly to keep it running.

When you clean the throttle body be careful to not push the throttle body open as it can damage the mechanism.

When you reset the Idle learn if the idle does not set at 650 rpm +- 100rpm the idle will not learn the new setting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • soviet_merlin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...