Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased a Wolf3d V4 ecu to use on a rb30det I have just finished building. The ecu was used on a highly modified rb25det and is not suitable for my setup *obviously*, it floods the engine to the point it hydro/petrol locks it and will not start it.

Does anyone have a basemap for rb25det to suit? So the car can moved around/driven carefully to get dyno tuned?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397718-wolf3d-v4-rb25det-basemap/
Share on other sites

Are you saying that it litterally locks the engine by filling the cylinders? !!

That is not an ECU issue. More likely you have an injector stuck open, probably due to incorrect wiring.

The V400 running a 6 cylinder will have to run 2 injectors on each of the first 3 injector channels, so they run as either a batch or semi-sequential arrangement. No single map will be a plug and play solution for you.

Cam sensor configuration will dictate how it works too.

Upload a copy of your map I can check it out for you.

Yes, full on locks the engine. Starts mint with rb25de ecu.

Yeah thats what I originally thought as well so replaced injectors, new seals and pintle caps, cleaned fuel rail etc. No change.

Would the lack of air temp sensor be the cause? using internal map sensor instead of AFM. Just remembered I don't have one currently connected at the moment since i'm waiting on IC piping to arrive.

Wolf3d map:

http://www.filefactory.com/file/76wx7opfc7o9/

File factory isn't letting me download your map.

If your air temp compensation is turned off, the ecu won't apply any corrections. THis is pretty typical of a lot of wolf ecu's ive seen installed. Its worth sorting out though.

You should be using internal MAP, not the MAF sensor.

The hydraulicing issue is a serious one, and is probably something else. With the ignition off unplug all your injectors. Then turn the ignition to ON, and plug in one injector at a time. If you hear a click on any of the injectors as you plug them in, your wiring has issues. Injectors should remain closed unless the engine is running.

PM me a list of all your modifications, injector sizes and your email address. See if you can sort out that download link too.

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...