Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking about leaving my EGO sensor out & bunging up the hole in the dump pipe.

Can anyone confirm if the ECU will put up a CEL if the sensor is left unplugged?

I already have the sensor input to the ECU cut off & replaced with a modified signal from my wideband so there's no issue with closed loop running, just a potential issue if the sensor itself is monitored for actually being 'plugged in'.

I would try it out but my car is in pieces & will need to decide before putting dump pipe back on as to whether to leave it out or not (otherwise exhaust & dump needs to come out again :down:).

It's the dark green one shown loose in this pic (passenger side of intake plenum, closest to firewall)..

post-76144-0-51105200-1334624933_thumb.jpg

I would assume it is only checking the signal into the ecu, if you unplug it there should be no cel if you have cut the wire and plumbed the wideband's narrow output into it. Hopefully it doesn't monitor the heater current or something silly like that.

You could always fit the wideband bung further down the exhaust like they recommend if you have issues.

It only checks for a varying signal, ie above and below .5 volt. If there is no signal they usually default to .3 volt, this simulates a lean mixture and ECU will richen up mixtures. You have a crosscounting signal simulated so they will run happily on that. I done they same thing with my Tech Edge for years..

  On 17/04/2012 at 1:29 AM, scotty nm35 said:

I would assume it is only checking the signal into the ecu, if you unplug it there should be no cel if you have cut the wire and plumbed the wideband's narrow output into it. Hopefully it doesn't monitor the heater current or something silly like that.

You could always fit the wideband bung further down the exhaust like they recommend if you have issues.

It was the heater current monitoring that I was thinking could cause an issue. The wideband sensor has been working fine for ages & sending the narrowband signal to the ECU. It is located beyond the dumpipe but before the cat converter so happy with the location & operation. Standard sensor has been sitting there doing nothing but restrict my gas flow a little.

  On 17/04/2012 at 1:57 AM, kjb_r33 said:

It only checks for a varying signal, ie above and below .5 volt. If there is no signal they usually default to .3 volt, this simulates a lean mixture and ECU will richen up mixtures. You have a crosscounting signal simulated so they will run happily on that. I done they same thing with my Tech Edge for years..

But have you pulled the sensor plug out of the loom on your V35? Our (M35) Stageas are vastly different to C34's & R33's. I've had no probs running on the simulated signal either, just unsure if our ECU monitors the actual sensor as being connected.

I suppose I could measure resistance / impedance of the sensor &, if I get a CEL when it's put back together, try a high wattage resistor across the socket to fool the ECU into thinking it's still there. But too much stuffing around.

Will someone just pull the plug & start their car already? :thumbsup: (I'd do it for you, you know I would!)

From memory there are a few different CELs related to the sensor. Craig unplugged his, and I only got one error code from it. There may be more as time goes on, I don't know, sometimes the ECU errors are based on not seeing sensor info for a specified amount of time. I think its based on the volts output of the sensor, not a actual resistance though- so by using narrowband from the WB, to the ecu, it should be fine.

That was my experience when I unplugged all of mine.

Thanks Alex. Craig confirmed an error when his was removed, but forgot to ask if his car had any signal going into the ECU to replace it, ie from a WB?. If not, then maybe I will be OK with it gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...