Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no....

i got out of rc to found my riceline , and just bought one off a mate or 50 bucks , its just an e10 , crappest hpi of all , but for drifting it doesnt matter as much , i got it for 50 bucks , i can get you a mates car the same as myne for 100

but generally speaking you can pick up a nice car second hand for about 250 , if you want a brand new setup , and something pretty descent probly 400 mark , then if you wana get serious , like an mi2 or a cyclone and for a complete brand new setup your punching above the 500-600 dollar mark , thats full carbon belt driven setup.... technicly..not needed , who cares but man just buy one like myne , and have fun it does pretty much the same thing as something with billet an carbon parts , there isnt much difference at all , if you want a car shoot me a text 0421652234 and ill hook you up.

Edited by Savtraxx

nothing wrong with used cars

im not gona argue about 20 of the 25 cars ive had were used , thats like saying dont buy a used real car?

makes no sense....

so anyway , anyone else?

no...

it's like saying don't buy a used drift car, you wouldn't expect it to be it good condition would you?

if the drift cars that you bought used were in good condition the people you bought them off clearly were not trying hard enough.

also lol.

I'm in the process of selling my setup for $600 to an interested SAU member.

It's been used once and is setup for 1.6 c/s.

http://www.sydneyrcdrifters.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=11251

Doesn't come with electrics but we can discuss if the buyer would like a ARTR setup.

i bought my cyclone off a guy who drives for hot bodies was setup very well , honestly im not good enough to keep it setup like he had it , i never raced it tho... i have owned my baja for 4 years now thrashed the guts out of it jumped it as big as it would go.. but ive also poured about 6 grand into it

its now for sale fully rebuild with all new bearings and almost new engine , rebuild shocks , diff etc.....

theres thrashing a car and not taking care of it and thrashing a car and having just as much fun keeping it in top nic after you've done killing it

your dribbling...............

real drift cars are mostly drift p igs...

but look at someone like.. mad mikes fd drift rig.... kept in a1 spec...

rc cars are normally ...NORMALLY kept in good nic cause its cheap to do so unlike real cars

i have bought so many second hand rc's

3 e fire storms

cen matrix truggy with lrp .30 in it

2 bajas

rock crawlers

cyclone

losi mini and micro t's

boats...

list goes on , i checked all of them before i bought and the owners kept them in good nic....

so "no" yourself ..........

thankyou :)

tw@

Edited by Savtraxx
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...