Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

PARTS STILL FOR SALE

R34 GTR Cusco Type-40 aluminium strut tower brace $240

R34 GTR C-west N1 front bar (genuine), carbon fibre (painted black), will need respray/minor repairs $750

R34 GTR C-west carbon fibre cannards for N1 bar $350

R34 GTR/GTT Nismo GT LED tail lights $1,200

----

Greddy engine oil cap $40

Mazda Air temp sensor (for PowerFC D-Jetro) (brand new) $120

S14a HKB boss kit with airbag light cancel resistor plug (brand new) $180

S14 'Edge' Side skirts, unpainted white gelcoat (brand new) $250

S14.5 Origin +25mm conversion fenders (brand new) $450

S14 Origin +50mm rear fenders (brand new) $450

S14 light weight fibreglass doors (brand new) $900

S14 Full Lexan window kit (rear window with NACA vents, rear quarters, driver and passenger door windows with slider window kits) (brand new) $1,000

S15 factory rear boot spoler with led's, pewter colour $120

S15 JDM factory steering wheel with airbag $250

S15 Hybrid aluminium radiator $250

S15 C-west style carbon fibre bonnet $650

S15 boot lid and ducktail spoiler (not separating, duck tail is sikaflex'd and bolted on to boot lid) $300

S13/180sx TRUST 19 row oil cooler kit, thick quality trust core, for S13/180sx with filter relocator $700

C-west genuine carbon fibre GT-wing, mounted on S15 boot lid, wrapped in matte black vinyl $1,100

HKS Super Sequential SQV BOV, genuine HKS, mounted on evo 8/9 hot pipe $300

ATP 'Frank' turbo, with stainless steel manifold, will fit s14/15 SR20det, good for around 240-250rwkw with stock cams. Braided lines included. $1100ono

  • 2 weeks later...

Are you?

Sorry for the delay, haven't checked this thread for a while.. PM sent Matt.

is the oil cooler new or used ?

It's used. New is over $900 buddy

This is what's left:


New parts

Mazda Air temp sensor (for PowerFC D-Jetro) (brand new) $120
S14a HKB boss kit with airbag light cancel resistor plug (brand new) $180
S14 'Edge' Side skirts, unpainted white gelcoat (brand new) $250
S14.5 Origin +25mm conversion fenders (brand new) $450
S14 Origin +50mm rear fenders (brand new) $450
S14 light weight fibreglass doors (brand new) $900
S14 Full Lexan window kit (rear window with NACA vents, rear quarters, driver and passenger door windows with slider window kits) (brand new) $1,050


Used parts

Factory
S15 factory rear boot spoler with led's, pewter colour $120
S15 JDM factory steering wheel with airbag $230

S15 front factory fenders (metal) no damage, no repairs $250 each

S15 factory rear bar $50

S15 factory sway bars $80 the pair
S15 boot lid and ducktail spoiler (not separating, duck tail is sikaflex'd and bolted on to boot lid) $300

Aftermarket

Greddy engine oil cap $40

S15 Hybrid aluminium radiator $250

S15 c-west front bar $350
S14/S15 Nismo springs and struts (lower than factory, very comfortable on street) $550
S13/180sx TRUST 19 row oil cooler kit, thick quality trust core, for S13/180sx with filter relocator $600
HKS Super Sequential SQV BOV, genuine HKS, mounted on evo 8/9 hot pipe $300
ATP 'Frank' turbo, with stainless steel manifold, will fit s14/15 SR20det, good for around 240-250rwkw with stock cams. Braided lines included. $1100ono
C-west genuine carbon fibre GT-wing, mounted on matte black wrapped S15 boot lid $1,100

R34 GTR Cusco Type-40 aluminium strut tower brace $220
R34 GTR C-west N1 front bar (genuine), carbon fibre (painted black), will need respray/minor repairs $700
R34 GTR C-west carbon fibre cannards for N1 bar $350
R34 GTR/GTT Nismo GT LED tail lights $1,200
R34 GTR Alcon 6-pot front 365mm brake kit, 4-pot rear 330mm brake kit. Ferodo DS3000 pads all round $6800

RAYS LE37's Top Secret Limited Edition Gold 18 x 10.5 +15 all round (rare, don't really want to sell these) $4000
SSR Type-C 17 x 9.5 +15 PAIR ONLY, white, average condition for age, no buckles $1000
** can post wheels interstate if needed at buyers cost **

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Interested in selling C-west genuine carbon fibre GT-wing, mounted on matte black wrapped S15 boot lid?

If the price is right I will buy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...