Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Csc brake setup

Fronts

6 piston calipers

356x32mm rotors

Rears

2 piston

330(i think)x32mm rotors

Some features are:

*High Strength Two Piece aluminium Calipers Heat treated and hard anodized

*Differential stainless steel piston sized to minimize pad taper

*Cast billet mounting brackets

*2 piece Rotor design with lightweight centre aluminium adapter

*Racing derived rotors with directional curved vane ventilation

*Rotors come standard with curved 24 slot design

*Uses standard master cylinder

The kit comes with adaptors and brake pads. brake lines not included.

This kit can fit other gtr's or gtst's however the front calipers bolts are 14mm on an r34, and 12mm on others. I was going to the get the 14mm holes fitted with 12mm steel time-sert thread insterts.

The discs are in great nick i believe the front were replaced about 6 months ago.

Have been sitting in the garage for a few months, no need for them now as these are much more braking than i will need for my car after careful deliberation.

$2500 not neg

in syd

post-3412-0-11310400-1335860262_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-03374300-1335860271_thumb.jpg

post-3412-0-92868700-1335860285_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399102-r34-gtr-csc-big-brake-kit/
Share on other sites

i beleive csc became bmax, so that would be the first point of call.

Here are some for sale for eg:

http://www.ebay.com....X-/380324456988

I bought these off GTRsean who was the one that replaced the discs, he may have more info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...