Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought yours was tuned local? Boost work, or speed lab.

Does toshi dyno tune or road tune the car?

Yeah... bit of both

Ive got a Toshi R33 ecu chip fitted to my standard stagea ecu (posted Toshi my ecu and he fitted the tuned chip)

Then its tuned at boostworx using a piggyback ecu, a AEM F/IC-8 which is a USA version of the greddy emanage ultimate, to adjust a variety of the settings such as injectors, etc

No reason that I can see that my setup wont reach 270rwkw now Ive got forged pistons, once I crank the boost; S15 injectors probably the limiting factor at this stage

Ive got a Z32 ecu sitting here, one day would like to have it rewired to suit the 3-row pin ecu plug of the stagea and nistune board fitted, then drop in some 550'cc injectors and go for 300rwkw...... one day.

Mail order tune dyno sheet.

This is std turbo at 12psi in WA

http://www.skylinesa...79#entry5379379

This is Hypergear R33 hiflow turbo at 15 psi in SA

http://www.skylinesa...54#entry5847954

They are damn good numbers for the psi. I was going to get a mail order tune about a year ago but never ended up getting any tune at all. Very good price for the results.

Actually PM sent, I need a new tune.

Edited by JiN_MaN

Curious after looking at some of those dyno sheets

1 )my r34 gtt exceeded 180kph in 4th gear and 1000rpm short of redline when the cat became a issue

Still making within 1 lb of boost as 3,000 rpm I know the diff lsd isnt stock but the gearset looked normal?

Is that normal ? On dyno dynamics dyno in 4th ? Should be 1.1 ??

2) the torque on a base flash no tweeks was a lot higher then a lot of big boost cars ? i know the series 2 gtt has different cams

And a few other tweeks and mine has a different camset from japan , they have a bunch of markings that i cant read

And it was in normal mode for tuning not shootout mode or anything odd

3) i dont run the z32 or updated pump , reg or injectors ( unless it came from japan tweaked ?) i have found other interesting items

That it didnt have listed on sales sheet ? Just seems odd to make so much power and torque on a near stock car on low boost on 98 octane , it never struggled till the ceramic hiflow hand me down cat issues

Afr was solid, duty cycle never pushed on injectors , smooth curve of power

And he was still pulling when the kph was getting up a fair bit

I video 'd the run and it just keeps going , like a rotor with light flywheel ?

Mine has a superlight flywheel so looks smoothe on the dyno and winds up without jumping around a lot

it was a virgin run on the dyno with it maybe its a fluke ?

Going to get a new cat and some other minor things before dumping lots of money

On a tune , the car has to be streetable and dependable , not a time bomb engine tune

All i know is the mines ecu drove horrible, the factory ecu drove ok but was a fail at 60kph torque was non existent with lightflywheel

Nistune and 2lb boost increase made the car so much better to drive in town fuel economy and coldstart / hotstart was better

It was worth the cost to update it And recommend it over boosting a motor thru the roof for power

Now i wish it was gtr to get the power to the pavement lol

Good to see i can provide comedy lol

im not a dyno tuner back when i built race cars and engine dynos were something f1 teams used

Even engine dynos were few and far between and expensive

im from the old school hand port and polish

Days and dual webbers you have to screw with daily at high altitude

Down the road from pikes peak ( hillclimb)

No i only had to rebuild piston engines

Until i woke up and bought a rotor to race

Pushrods make good drink straws lol they bend just right

Ask any ford /gm owner

i just realized im prob the oldest poster (child)in SA ? Think shane beats me just

But doesnt post

Curious after looking at some of those dyno sheets

1 )my r34 gtt exceeded 180kph in 4th gear and 1000rpm short of redline when the cat became a issue

Still making within 1 lb of boost as 3,000 rpm I know the diff lsd isnt stock but the gearset looked normal?

Is that normal ? On dyno dynamics dyno in 4th ? Should be 1.1 ??

2) the torque on a base flash no tweeks was a lot higher then a lot of big boost cars ? i know the series 2 gtt has different cams

And a few other tweeks and mine has a different camset from japan , they have a bunch of markings that i cant read

And it was in normal mode for tuning not shootout mode or anything odd

3) i dont run the z32 or updated pump , reg or injectors ( unless it came from japan tweaked ?) i have found other interesting items

That it didnt have listed on sales sheet ? Just seems odd to make so much power and torque on a near stock car on low boost on 98 octane , it never struggled till the ceramic hiflow hand me down cat issues

Afr was solid, duty cycle never pushed on injectors , smooth curve of power

And he was still pulling when the kph was getting up a fair bit

I video 'd the run and it just keeps going , like a rotor with light flywheel ?

Mine has a superlight flywheel so looks smoothe on the dyno and winds up without jumping around a lot

it was a virgin run on the dyno with it maybe its a fluke ?

Going to get a new cat and some other minor things before dumping lots of money

On a tune , the car has to be streetable and dependable , not a time bomb engine tune

All i know is the mines ecu drove horrible, the factory ecu drove ok but was a fail at 60kph torque was non existent with lightflywheel

Nistune and 2lb boost increase made the car so much better to drive in town fuel economy and coldstart / hotstart was better

It was worth the cost to update it And recommend it over boosting a motor thru the roof for power

Now i wish it was gtr to get the power to the pavement lol

With the standard car;

They probably didn't rev the car out since the power had dropped off.

Where does it show the torque for the car? As far as I can see there is power boost and AFR but no torque.

Gotta dig the print out from a box in shed

But torque was listed as 503nm At about 3400 i think ?

The power never dropped off it was still climbing at 6400 rpm redline is set at 7400 In current state of tune? and boost rock solid only 1lb down from 3k rpm

The only thing that stopped it was the cat burning smell so he stopped it there ? After inspecting it the matrix was failing ( old xforce 3 inch)

And glowing red so it would make more power still ! (his gtt makes over 320kw automatic box ? but has z32 and greddy intake injectors pump and a slightly bigger turbo )

The afr reading was flat and no black smoke or backfires after o2 replaced and set on nistune

The first run about killed me from being so rich , weird cause the o2 wasnt a issue with factory ecu ?

I know it wont hit 320 at this state of tune but he reckons 230ish depending on what the deal is on the cams

And pulleys

I found the speed was way faster then posted results on links in every case ? Any idea why it was so high in 4th ? i wouldnt think the rear end gears are swapped out ? But it does have a nismo lsd from japan on import ?

Speedo is right on the money and his dyno recorded it the same ?

put it this way i had to ask what the dyno speed is limited too !!

Of course you cant hear anything in the dyno cell doors closed on a 35c day

And cant check the speed That high except on the track ??

so i was wondering about the dyno parameters if that could be why ?

It had the wheelbase programmed automatic via software ? i watched that part as it moved to match the car?

and bonnet closed as well ? The dyno days ive been too with sau use bonnet up

Stock ecu it ran a 172kw @redline -343nm But afr was all over the road

Anyway prob run it again in a few months if i can get the other bits done

just left me puzzled a bit

So you weren't talking about the linked graphs then?

If your putting the car on the dyno just to get a power figure then operators generally don't rev the engine out once the car has passed peak power, there is no point. If you are tuning then there may be a need to rev it passed the peak power point as they are still logging cells and adjusting the tune.

If the dyno operator doesn't enter the final drive ratio then the torque reading won't be accurate. It doesn't effect the power reading only the torque.

Also ramp rates have a big effect on both power an torque outputs. AFAIK that is the point behind the shootout modes to give a fixed ramp rate to compare results, but even then they aren't really comparable as strapping can also have a large effect on outputs.

Edited by D_Stirls

Nistune board is $242 plus install $60 total $302.

Z32 ecu need modified for R33 cost $60-80.

Z32 ECU $100-200.

So just ecu $462-582.

How much is dyno tune?

Is SA very cheap?

In Sydney around $150 /hour.(around 3-4 hours)

a mate paid 200 bucks for a z32 ecu, 250 for the nistune chip to be installed in the ecu, then 350 for a dyno tune.

so all up was about 700 bucks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...