Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just about to join the ranks of V series drivers after 3 years in a R33 GTST. My 33 was reasonably stock but I definatley noticed improved performance when I installed a HFC and 3" CBE, installed a pod filter and then also put in a cold box. I also installed a GFB 2 stage boost controller which was a bit of fun at times.

So my question is, what should my priorities be for a V36 sedan:

I was thinking:

1) Cold air intake

Stillen cold air intakes

http://www.stillen.c...INITI&model=G35

There is also a great youtube video for ingen here, but I'm not too keen on taking my front bar off

media]

[/media]

2) Exhaust

Stock headers remain - I can't see anywhere here or on G35driver with a compelling argument to swap them out??

Install HFC - recommendations welcome - Berk or ??

Install CBE - again recommendations - so many options??

I was also wondering if anyone has any experience with test pipes / decat pipes in Australia. I know the implications if I get pulled over. There are comments on G35driver about increased smell and power improvements.

3) Plenum Spacer

I was thinking a Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer as I may want to put a strut in later, not sure

4) Grounding kit

Again Stillen

http://www.stillen.c...ar=&make=

Have I missed anything?

Grateful for your advice/recommendations

Cheers

Edited by Skylinetragic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399428-v36-performance-priorities/
Share on other sites

exhaust makes a bigger difference for turbos than n/a

taking off the frontbar isn't a hard job, just a lot of screws, a small metal bracket on each side near the headlights & 3 cables to unplug as you pull the frontbar off (i think they are impact sensors for the airbags) I kept the screws & brackets in different bags so I didn't get anything mixed up

3) I was under the impression that a plenum spacer was more a necessity for the VQ35 in the v35/350z due to the intake design, I remember reading somewhere on Myg37.com ages ago that it wasn't really needed for the Vq37

http://www.skylinesa...s/page__st__120

my car saw a 21kw increase from

Cat back exhaust 2.5" piping

High flow panel filters

I also installed a grounding kit, it helped improve the shifting feel of the auto gearbox funnily enough, the shifts felt that tiny bit quicker to make a noticeable difference after I installed.

These cars have decent base line power output but nowhere near the potential of a turbo set-up. If you just want it as a comfy daily driver/cruiser with a bit of oomph it's perfect. The best bit, no cop drama :)

I'd also suggest you look into aftermarket sport swaybars, springs if you want to lower it a bit & decent tyres

Have fun, I love the sedans btw :yes:

hi mate, you can get just the wires or a volt stabiliser kit which will cost a fair bit more, think I paid about $100 for mine? (bought aaages ago) the volt stabiliser is more wank factor than anything imo I just bought mine for convenience as it was already at the shop. Brand is Raizin volt stabilizer

They will all pretty much do the same job just insulated metal cables really, try googling either grounding kits or bolt stabilizer. You can probably find something cheap on ebay. as long as it's got at least 5 cables of varying lengths you'll be right

in my picture gallery I have pics of my install. It will give you an idea of what to do.

Pretty much connect the cables from the negative battery terminal to a grounding point on the chassis, the engine block & the throttle bodies. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start work.

The good thing about the kit I bought was it came with a metal bracket to connect to the negative battery terminal, & it had space to run the rest of the cables. I'll post a pic of this when I get the chance

This is a pretty good instructional thread http://www.myg37.com...stallation.html

A bit of common sense & 10 minutes you're done :)

hi mate, you can get just the wires or a volt stabiliser kit which will cost a fair bit more, think I paid about $100 for mine? (bought aaages ago) the volt stabiliser is more wank factor than anything imo I just bought mine for convenience as it was already at the shop. Brand is Raizin volt stabilizer

They will all pretty much do the same job just insulated metal cables really, try googling either grounding kits or bolt stabilizer. You can probably find something cheap on ebay. as long as it's got at least 5 cables of varying lengths you'll be right

in my picture gallery I have pics of my install. It will give you an idea of what to do.

Pretty much connect the cables from the negative battery terminal to a grounding point on the chassis, the engine block & the throttle bodies. Remember to disconnect the battery before you start work.

The good thing about the kit I bought was it came with a metal bracket to connect to the negative battery terminal, & it had space to run the rest of the cables. I'll post a pic of this when I get the chance

This is a pretty good instructional thread http://www.myg37.com...stallation.html

A bit of common sense & 10 minutes you're done :)

Thanks for the info.

They have this posted all over myG37.com regarding the grounding kit. Did you notice a big difference?

might look into investing in one over the next few weeks

cheers

very subtle difference but definitely noticeable. The gear changes in D & Ds seem much sharper & positive. upshifting feels a lot better in manual mode too. Grounding kit was one of the first things I did when I bought my car.

manual V36's wouldn't need it though

Hey Yo-yo, do you recommend a grounding kit? I have an auto too.

price?

where to get it from?

installation tips?

cheers

I found a guy on G35driver.com who delivers to Australia for $135 - sxexcx is his username.

My google searches for a G35 grounding kit kept on bringing him up so I joined and PMed, he says he's sent loads of kits over here. I found a few stillen kits online, but not in the colour I wanted and I've tried unsuccessfully to fit universal kits for other things before (they fitted like shi*t) so I figure I'll try him out - he takes paypal so at least it's traceable.

  • 1 year later...

#@Yo-Yo - can I ask which High flow panel filters you went for and where did you get them from?

This seems like a very good upgrade as most general service places don't stock any compatible filters anyway, so might as well order some high flows and put them in yourself!

I can see this is the K&N filter for V36's - K&N 33-2399, around $175 for 2x delivered from ebay.com.au, $125 from ebay US. Reviews on K&N website report good fuel economy/power improvements, but wonder how accurate they are.

I did stillen high flow cats and megan racing catback exhaust.
Definitely gain on upper rev band, plus it sounds awesome. About $1k all up for parts.
CAI? its a waste of time. our airbox design is similar to R35 gtr so its very effcient, barely gains on dyno.
Grounding kit will let the gear change abit faster thats all, i would go for Trans Go kit instead.
Uprev tune is the biggest power play for n/a application, good tune with after market headers, exhaust you will see a 25-30 whp gain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...