Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had cams installed and I think my mechanic didnt put on the timing belt on correctly. The engine started making this distinct noise every time it has warmed up. My dyno tuner said either the bearings in the timing belt tensioner is stuffed or it wasnt adjusted properly. because apparently the belt was moving forwards and backwards rubbing againts the cover backing plate

but a few days later the sound has completely disappeared

so Im just wondering does the tensioner self adjust itself or something?

How much are the tensioners to replace anyway? and where would I find them? wreckers?

another question is Im about to wash the engine bay and I have left the timing belt cover off, so is it allright if the timing belt got wet?

and if I were to replace the timing belt, is there that much of a difference between standard nissan items and aftermarket stuff like TRUST and NISMO?

sounds hideously expensive for a blue piece of rubber

is there any other cheaper aftermarket belts? or is nissan as low as it gets?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39983-timing-belt-questions/
Share on other sites

HAHAHAHA

sorry couldnt help myself

feel sorry for the guy though

offcourse I wont spray water all over the coils thats just dumb

Ive washed the engine a few times

I usually cover the air filter and avoid spraying the electrics

and keep the engine idling while you're washing

seems fine the last few times I did it

arent engines watertight anyway

Dont know about idling it, but i covered the fuse box, battery and afm&pod with a plastic bag. then blasted it with engine degreaser and a high pressure hose. Also about the timming belt, dont bother with the brand names, its not worth spending big bucks for something that does the EXACT same thing, they dont really last longer either. A lot of time and research has gone into the rubber of timming belts. So dont waste your hard earned cassh.

is that noise you heard only apparent when you step off the power ? right near the front of the block ? have a similar thing atm, and would agree, it sounds like a collapsed bearing in the tension adjust idler pully. Gonna get it looked at tomorow, ill let you know how it turns out.... can you let me know if you find out a price though?

cheers

Phil

ok, went and saw my local enthusiast/mechanic and he seemed to think it was either the idler pulley or CAS - so we have two mechanics with the same view... good start... tomorow will start the tortuos task of finding the parts...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
is that  noise you heard only apparent when you step off the power ? right near the front of the block ? have a similar thing atm, and would agree, it sounds like a collapsed bearing in the tension adjust idler pully.  Gonna get it looked at tomorow, ill let you know how it turns out....   can you let me know if you find out a price though?

cheers

Phil

Phil did you find out wat it is with yours? And possibly how much to fix it?

Thanx

This thread is abit old, but i have a similar problem.

The timing belt was changed on my dads rb30 two months ago. Its making a noise aswell but it was silent before the mechanic replaced it.

It sounds like a low whiny noise, now its a consistant noise when the engines idling but it goes away when its being driven.

id like to know how much it would cost to fix aswell, it its the CAS bearings should they be fixed soon?

This thread is abit old, but i have a similar problem.

The timing belt was changed on my dads rb30 two months ago. Its making a noise aswell but it was silent before the mechanic replaced it.  

It sounds like a low whiny noise, now its a consistant noise when the engines idling but it goes away when its being driven.

id like to know how much it would cost to fix aswell, it its the CAS bearings should they be fixed soon?

I do know that if this pully is not reassembled in the right way that the bearing case rubs and makes a whinning & grinding sound and i suppose not long after that the bearings will be stuffed.Go to tight and the effect also worsens...

Knew it would be bearings. This happens all the time. The other thing you have to watch out for is when someone is doing the timing belt on your nissan, DON'T EVER LET THEM USE A HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER....EVER. This will crack the internal ring in the balancer and stuff it before you can blink your eyes..

Its your idler bearing on the TIMING BELT not the FAN BELTS per the previous picture, it happended to mine after my engine rebuild as everything was tight to fact specs and the bearing was starting to wear from factory...

Just replace it, it s abugger of a job and you need to remove the radiator etc etc etc

usually it is the passenger side idler, as this has the most force applied to it on start up and aceleration...

Just trying to state a fact that the idler bearing if not reassembled in the right fashion will rub and die.I dont see a problem in taking the harmonic balancer off whith a claw/puller as it is the only way to safely take one off.If your really worried that it is not coming off easy enuff then give it a tap tap tap as you are trying to take it off.

The skyline is the first car that i have ever changed a belt on by myself.It was a very easy job.The only problem i had with it was that it was annoying to have to take the radiator off just to get at the harmonic balancer with the puller.

Make sure that the bolts (harmonic balancer & the timing belt tensioner) are all torque tensioned.You wouldnt want it working its way loose.

:)

I dont see a problem in taking the harmonic balancer off whith a claw/puller as it is the only way to safely take one off.

You will find the harmonic balancer has 2 x 6 mm holes ( pretty sure they are 6 mm but maybe 5 mm ) and you can use a gear puller utilising the 2 holes . If you use a claw puller you may bent or break it .

But if the bolt stays in there and you gradually take it out then there is no prob using the gear puller..It even has a little indentation in the bolt to put the eye of the shaft...It's made for it.

That may be so, but if anyone here is actually listening to me then you would have read....crack the INTERNAL ring of the harmonic balancer. Sure you might have gotten away with it this time, maybe not...but it is a fact that 9 out of 10 will crack that ring. You will still get the balancer off most of the time but the ring is only cast steel and only about 1.5 mm thick. The balancer won't be visibly damaged but down the track you will spin it and then it's stuffed.

You can chose to take my advise or not...it's your funeral. I'm only speaking from experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...