Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im booked into get my car tuned next thursday, since the pwr fc was tuned last, i added a gtx3076, cams, 550nismos, 4inch intake, bigger dump, and Z32

It was booked in to be tuned a week ago and timing and basic stuff checked and although was running rough but drivable, just. i ended up missing the dyno cause it took longer than expected to get it ready.

ok so the problem is silly me started playing with the computer, i hit yes to initialize and now everything has reset to stock.

So i either copy someone elses fuel and ignition map and try to limp there or just tow it , rather not tow it so can anyone scan a few maps so i can try , cause at moment it starts and is showing engine light.

as long as its not leaning out and runs on light throttle that will save $$ on towing it.

Edited by SliverS2

i have it set on VG30 and had the injection correction between .7 and 1.2 and it is just shaking, as soon as i touch the throttle to reverse it just stalls or wants to , no power, it has no ms data, so ill try the .18ms

is that what your pwr fc has? what about the maps and ignition they all just say 100 across all boxes, should this come up accross like 100 100 105 110 115 etc? just want some numbers for low revs and idle

Your in the wrong menu.

Initialize it again to undo everything you've done. Select VG30. Go into the Injector menu (not Ign/Inj) and set the first column to 66.5% and the second to .18. You shouldn't need to touch the main maps for simply limping it there. Also make sure the boost control kit is turned off if your not using it, from memory it's on by deault.

hmm ok then ill try that and see if it wants to run,

what about the check engine light? its on all the time, maybe it will go out when i select 66.5% and .18

What can i do to ensure its not running too lean, i take it those stock maps will be making it safe along with the above adjustments?

when you INIT the powerfc you need to do the self idle adjust, if you dont it will instantly stall when you tap the throttle

my advice

read the PFC FAQ (in my sig) about DATA INIT

1. perform DATA INIT

2. dont start the car

3. set AFM

4. set injectors

5. turn off boost kit

6. start the car

7. let it idle for 30 minutes as per self idle adjust

8. baby car to tuners and away you go

if you skip the self idle adjust you get a car that stalls instantrly in most cases

if you dont turn off the boost kit and you arent using the boost kit the check engine light stays on because it cant find the map sensor. the boost kit is on by deault when you DATA INIT the PFC

thanks for that info, i tried it out just tonight 66.5% and 0.18ms and its not working, i have no idea whats doing here, it ran smooth for a short while and sounded sweet under a rev but then started breaking down like a wrx sound, shitload of fuel came out the tail pipe, i noticed as i locked up car.

what about accel inj time, does that need changed? i can see 1000rpm 2.4ms 0.6ms

2000rpm 3.4ms 1.1ms

i think i might have to just tow it on a trailer, it was starting to make like a light knock noise as it was wanting to stall, cant be good

Shouldn't need to change anything other than what's been mentioned already. What do the plugs look like? All this fiddling could have fouled them up pretty badly. It sounds like you might be best off getting it towed, if you do just make sure you take a spare set of plugs with you incase the current ones are no good.

I'm curious why everything has been addressed except for the cams, you can't run bigger cams on a basemap and expect it to idle.

Personally I would put the stock afm and injectors back in, modify basemap and confirm its running (with the cams), add the 550cc injectors, modify basemap again, then finally the z32 afm and finish off the basemap

I'm curious why everything has been addressed except for the cams, you can't run bigger cams on a basemap and expect it to idle.

Personally I would put the stock afm and injectors back in, modify basemap and confirm its running (with the cams), add the 550cc injectors, modify basemap again, then finally the z32 afm and finish off the basemap

well there just poncams, most people say they wont affect idle at all, it was running ok before the cams , its more the z32 that made it run worse, constantly stalling , i think its time to put it on a trailer, i dont wanna stuff it up anymore.. :unsure:

Going to put some NGK platnium plugs in today and new throttle gasket and regasket the blow off valve just incase. Was going to put on cam gear but might wait and see what happens, anything over 280kw will be good.

this. assuming you have a rb25 the injector settings will be 66.5% and +.18ms and the afm is VG30

Dropped the car at the tuner today, you were spot on, the problem was wet plugs, must of been from the first few attempts starting it,

he ran it lean to clean them up and it came good, then i drove it to get fuel, already feels great even without the tune, just waiting for the dyno now :)

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...