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Best advice would be leave it as it is because they build the cars as a package rather than just bolting shiny stuff on and hoping for the best.

If you're dead keen on more power, 2.8 is really the way to go.

Dont stress the AFM's - the ones you have are certainly not cheap and while yes it's better to have MAP in some people's opinion (including mine), you'll be spending money on that swap for no real gain in HP. For example, if you take the AFM's out and sell them you'll get about $700, and then about the same for the PFC (it has a super expensive tune on it now which will be thrown away), so lets say around $1400. Now, you'll need to buy another ECU so lets say you get the Link G4 which is popular thesedays, thats $1850 inc the map sensor it needs as the on board one doesnt read high enough. So you're out of pocket $450 at this stage. Now, go have the board put into a stock casing which you'll have to find from someone (say $50 or slab of beer), then map sensor installed into the engine bay, then tuned, you'll spend at least $1000 on that being done by someone who knows what they're doing. So, $1450 approx spent and all you've done is delete the AFM's which are the best on the market anyway.

Wait, sorry it's got Vcam - forget the tune being cheap

It could have a stock fuel pump in there, but if I had to guess I'd guess a Nismo pump.

It's going to be running 1 bar boost given how they do their boost control. You could change the actuators to higher ones from GCG or have the current ones loaded to open at a different pressure. Have a look at the actuator arms and take a picture if you can, see if they're dead straight or if there is a bend in them. Of course any change to boost will require tuning

Also if you want to get rid of that exhaust one day, there's heaps of guys in Sydney that would be keen

Don't think it has the stock fuel pump.. the one in there makes some noise (squirt squirt every 3-4 seconds).

If it is indeed running 1 bar boost then it has a f**kload of potential left in it!

When full boost is hit, the MFD reads 1.4 bar (from memory) and starts flashing red however, that could just be the limitation of the MFD..

I'll have a look next time on the Apexi AVCR to get the exact reading.

Out of curiousity, why do Racepace choose to not run EBCs?

Wait, sorry it's got Vcam - forget the tune being cheap

It could have a stock fuel pump in there, but if I had to guess I'd guess a Nismo pump.

It's going to be running 1 bar boost given how they do their boost control. You could change the actuators to higher ones from GCG or have the current ones loaded to open at a different pressure. Have a look at the actuator arms and take a picture if you can, see if they're dead straight or if there is a bend in them. Of course any change to boost will require tuning

Also if you want to get rid of that exhaust one day, there's heaps of guys in Sydney that would be keen

Edited by r0bstr_

Learn something new every day, excellent!

The previous owner states it is only displaying boost and speed only.. interesting.

Anyway of checking the AVCR to see if it is controlling the boost?

Overall, I'm in a similar predicament to you so I'll be following you're thread closely. I'm at the limits of the stock engine now saving up for the next step. I'm actually going backwards by quietening the exhaust for the baby...

AVCR - enjoy: http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf

Cheers dude!

Overall, I'm in a similar predicament to you so I'll be following you're thread closely. I'm at the limits of the stock engine now saving up for the next step. I'm actually going backwards by quietening the exhaust for the baby...

AVCR - enjoy: http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf

Don't think it has the stock fuel pump.. the one in there makes some noise (squirt squirt every 3-4 seconds).

If it is indeed running 1 bar boost then it has a f**kload of potential left in it!

When full boost is hit, the MFD reads 1.4 bar (from memory) and starts flashing red however, that could just be the limitation of the MFD..

I'll have a look next time on the Apexi AVCR to get the exact reading.

Out of curiousity, why do Racepace choose to not run EBCs?

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Thanks dude, will def have to do that

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Racepace don't use EBC's, it's not strange at all :)

ahhh. learn something new everyday...

Just because the fuel pump makes a noise doesn't mean it's any specific one. It's time for you to open the fuel tank up and look inside! Let the tank get almost empty though, it's no fun when there's fuel in the tank (some is unavoidable of course but what I mean is dont fill the tank up then stick your hand in)

Sorry, 1 bar actuators will mean a minimum of 1 bar (close enough to 15psi). Check the AVCR though to be sure. There may be a PFC boost control kit in there but i highly doubt that.

RP set the actuators to the boost level wanted and thats that - no need to spend money on EBC's and spend time on setting them up etc. Look at how many cars they've done like that and how well those cars have performed and they've definatley proven EBC's arent needed :)

Maybe a call to the previous owner or racepace might save some time and labour...

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