Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have been doing a bit of research on EWPs and can find plenty of info but not so much real world testing. Does anyone here run an EWP?

Was there a notable difference in cooling efficiency and does anyone have a dyno reading as to how much gain can be made. (hp gain is secondary, just curious to see what the real difference is)

Cheers in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401303-electric-water-pump-benefits/
Share on other sites

From a mate's experience in his old Merc with an electric fan combo.

- Great for heavy traffic in summer.

- Engine slightly more responsive.

- Heater doesn't seem to work as effective - Takes ages for the heater to warm up.

- Less heat soak, pump continues running for a few minutes after engine is turned off.

- Controller had some gremlins after working flawless for a year:

- pump did not turn on once - nearly cooked his engine.

- pump never shut off when he turned off the engine - ended up with a flat battery.

I'd go for one myself. able to slow and speed up water flow depending on temp and working electric fans from the same controller (like a Davies Craig) could allow fast warm up and constant temperature control.

When I get some money up I will buy and test this, but for the moment will stick with the old crank driven pump, only because it still works :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...