Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I bought my s1 R33 rb25det skyline last week with HICAS issues, the light was comming on and off, but two days ago it came on and has not gone off. I've been over many forums trying to figure out whats gone wrong but there seems to be so many. Ive been through my fuses nothing popped or broken, my power steering belt is fine, the fluid is full and the pump should still be working. It is fitted with a after market steering wheel and im not to sure how to tell if its correct or not.

The car was driving like a dream till this happen and its kind of a shame to drive it how she is now. i read about tomei hicas lock that i can wire into the HICAS ECU.. if i buy that isgoing it to be a sure fix?

Thanks in advance.

Dylan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401819-problems-with-my-hicas/
Share on other sites

Does the HICAS light come on as soon as you start the car, or after you drive it for a while (like 5 mins)

There is a HICAS diagnostic test you can do, which will tell you how to find out what the problem is. Search the forum to find out the steps required to do the test, then post the results.

Also make sure there is definitely power to the HICAS ECU.

I think if the light is coming on straight away, it may not be the stearing wheel, as I think you have to drive the car for 5 minutes and over 80km/h for the steering wheel sensor to initiate the HICAS light (but I could be wrong)

1.fit lock bar (you can get em anywhere) 2,get a decent four wheel allignment 3.remove globe from dash

but if you really want to keep HICAS do a diagnostic test and if that doesnt seem to work toddle off to a reputable workshop and get them to sort it out

the last thing you want is that damned unit kicking in at the wrong time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...