Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THREAD IS UP!!!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412474-newcastlecentral-coast-cruise-to-broke-and-back-21212/

FIRST EVENT EVER SO GO EASY!!!

congrats benji! go very easy mate. youve got a lot to learn :D

hahah nar u must just have good taste :woot: im going for the "what are u talking about officer look its all black its stock" look

Yep & exactly! although one look into my engine bay with the big RED R RACING - BUILD NUMBER XX plauque on the coil pack cover will say somethings not quite right lol.

my engine bay is stock :)

Mine too :ph34r:

Officer..........

Oh and Martin, the deadline is due to needing the car in Sydney on both Friday and Saturday and at the moment the paint is stripping itself....

It could be a number of things

1ST thing is - don't keep on testing it.

2nd thing - check all your intake hoses again - particularly the intercooler hoses - you may just have had a hose blow off

If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, i suggest giving DVSJEZ a call to run some diagonsitics.

Def sounds like a intake hose blown off, how much boost did it say and where is your gauge plumbed to?

I have nfi where its plumbed to its stock standard 34 GTR setup, i hoping its just a hose somewhere thats popped off, the car is running around 1 bar i think its boosting to .9kgcm2 on the GTR display, and its registers that its boosting but no power. i can hear the turbos spool and everything just no power

if a hose pops off it will idle fine (i.e. it only needs atmo pressure air to run)

Turbo will spool because its the exhaust that drives them, not the entering air.

do you have an electonic boost controller?

I've circled the location of the stock boost control solinoid thingy. Mine had been replaced by the Greedy EBC controller, so it wont look exactly like pictured.

From memory one of the lines runs back to the MFD. The other should run to somewhere along your intake (can't remember exactly) if you follow this, than your boost leak is most likely after this point...

XXXX.jpg

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Yeh i have had a look at that, my issue is i dont have any tools to be able to take anything apart, my dads tools are scatterd all over the shed and i cant find anything thanks to my brother not putting anything back, i got the hose with the AFM off the air box and called my mechanic, oil in the hose pic is below, car is going to the mechanics tomorrow they have said i can drive it but dont flog it take it easy get it down to them.

post-83784-0-92433800-1351397007_thumb.jpg

Sounds weird, surely you'd not a hose hanging off?

It's not pulling hard but the Turbos are spoiling. Could be not enough fuel going in or anything! Afm could be f**ked in some way and no sense the f**kload of air coming in.

Just thinking you'd see a big hose hanging off?

Anyone know anything about stock fuel rails? more inportantly, can the stock regulator be removed from a stock GTR rail?

I run a GTR rail now in my car, removed the stock Regs and Dampners to do it but have an adjustable Sard in line..... What you trying to do?

Don't want to modify the stock rail to get my larger bore injectors in - so i'm ordering a 11mm billet rail.

Just wanted to know if the stock regulator can be removed so i can reuse it or if i had to get a new one. Been in the middle of butt f*ck know where atm, i can't just go look at the car to find out ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I'll give that a go. Hard pass on the steel bushings though 😄
    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
×
×
  • Create New...