Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, will be at Top Gear as well.... Staying down there with Carmens family....

yea to easy, tickets wont sell out will they?

i havent looked into it too much, but im very keen to go.

do you only need to go one day?

yea mate,

6 nights over there... very much looking forward to a break and time off.. and to just sit around and relax and drink ha.

Sounds awesome! I wont be having any time off until late this year..... :/

yea to easy, tickets wont sell out will they?

i havent looked into it too much, but im very keen to go.

do you only need to go one day?

I would be looking at pre-booking.... Unlike the indoor shows there is a shitload of space at SMSP so i doubt it would sell out....

http://www.topgearfestivalsydney.com.au/tickets

It should be pretty good!

cheers,

what do you think the beday to go would be?

im thinking sat?..

I am not sure which day will be better or if they will be similar man...

Waiting on tickets at the moment, accomodation is sorted but not yet the tickets...

My cousin imported a white R32 GTR from Japan around 2005

He took me for a drive in it years ago and I remember getting thrown back in the seat due to slingshot like acceleration! This is what originally got me into imports.

Anyway, had look at some old pics of it and the chassis looked CLEAN AS and straight...

Talked to my cousin a few months ago and he had sold it to some bloke and it is sitting unused.

So going to give my cousin a call later on to get him to find out if the guy wants to sell it. Obviously I'd have to convince my dad to buy the car and it would have to pass a vigorous panel/chassis rail inspection from the panel gap professor aka me....but there is potential to get it for a BARGAIN price.

STFU Benji!

You Wicked Wing! :P

:woot:

benji you ain't buying a gtr now your trolling fs threads that don't even exist?!

just kidding let us know what happens

Giving my cousin a ring tomorrow night, and going to ask him if he could contact the guy he sold it to to see if he'd be interested in selling....

:yes:

Just really hope the freakin chassis is straight, immaculate and rust-free. My cousin said when he sold it it was really nice and had no accident history. ..but that could have changed! On the negative side if its been sitting for ages itll cost a fair bit to get back into good mechanical running condition....but then again thats an opportunity for a lowball offer to be accepted and a gtr to be in my driveway (slightly managed to convince my dad that itd be a great car for him to own given how he's retiring soon and should re-ignite his car hobby =D).

Inb4 I get a job paying well once I finish uni and transform it into a 800ps R32 GT-R wangan monster equipped with HKS V-Cam Pro and a T51R Kai

:woot:

There he goes again with the over active imagination.

Bish, you POOR!

Get a job! Work, earn, save, buy a home. Then think about toys.

Otherwise I'm going to confiscate the keys to the Tokyo two young men wanking s15

There he goes again with the over active imagination.

Bish, you POOR!

Get a job! Work, earn, save, buy a home. Then think about toys.

Otherwise I'm going to confiscate the keys to the Tokyo two young men wanking s15

:laugh: lol Alex

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...