Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All this talk of tyres is making my brain hurt

Just get a second set of rims with some Dunlop slics and problem solved

Nah it's all good, just going to get a good street set.. Will get 18s in the future if I decide to track etc...

yeah 595 ss, i want rsrs but 1000 bucks >.<

on another note,

i just drove a gtr, was big and yellow and im f**kin getting one next year!!

cant beleive the difference!! uts f**kin epic!!! keep a look out for a 33 gtr boys. low kms, many mods, 20k

will be buying feb/march next year when i got a steady job

Was it the twins or the AWD

For the money of a 33 GTR you could get a Stag. Twin turbo and AWD plus room for a baby seat for future use

everything man, race seats, you felt like you were sitting in a jet, the twins sound sick, the twin bovs sound sick, the exhaust, the fact that everyone was looking at it just driving down a back street. f**kin awesome.

yeah but stags are f**kin gay hahaha.

everything man, race seats, you felt like you were sitting in a jet, the twins sound sick, the twin bovs sound sick, the exhaust, the fact that everyone was looking at it just driving down a back street. f**kin awesome.

yeah but stags are f**kin gay hahaha.

Might need to buy a yellow 33r to get the 'deer in the head lights' look from everyone haha

Just have cash to rebuild 10K is a good firgure, i got stuck for a few weeks with mine when i blew it, lucky i "found" 10k. My rebuild will be done 1st week of next month costing around 9.2k, they had to order more parts then they thought as the head was FUBAR thanks to the 3rd and 5th bearing going for a swim through the engine.

Questionable 2nd hand r34 engine's...yes

Solid rebuilds....No

But good to hear it's coming along Adam. Unfortunatly build budgets never go to plan :unsure:

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

ah i see, so itll be stronger then stock now?

With Adam's build list, he definatly will be able to handle some more power pretty reliably.

But i was mainly refering to the knowledge that the engine was going to be in good shape once finsihed i.e.'solid'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...