Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok there are 3 screws on the bottom of the door trimming...

one more once you have pull out the plastic coverings that contains the mirror switches...

and door handle cover need to be removed... I think there is one screw there too.

once you take off the plastic cover off from arm rest then it sould be it, just matter of using gentle but firm grip and take them off...

take off from bottom and lift Ifind that's the easiest way, and put it back on clip the top then bottom

I hope this helps ya

if this is 1st time you might have problems, just carefull you not breake any plastic while you doing this.

cheers

Joe

thanks joe. already got it done. was a bit worried coz i didn't want to break any of the plastic, especially the part where it surrounds the controls for the windows etc. but in the end i got a bit fustrated and used more force and it came out. there is one screw behind the door handle cover, that cover was a biatch to remove until i realised what was holding it in.

i was a bit surprised when i saw that i had some pretty decent looking Carrozeria pioneer speakers in there. weird, i think they were 6", in the back i have the same brand in 6 x 9's. and my sound is very avg. i have a vdo head unit in. dunno why it sounds so bad.

it would've helped, but i already took it off and then came in and read it hehe. i wanted to remove it because i was hearing this rattling noise coming from it. it also comes from the passenger side door as well. its really been annoying for ages but i just haven't done anything about until now.

it only started rattling after the alarm guy installed my alarm, so i figured the panels were a bit loose after he put em back on. i also have a clunking noise coming from the rear left which i can't work what it is. sounds like the jack is moving around but its not :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...