Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The front windscreen wiper keeps blowing fuses, oddly only when i am driving and with the wipers off. Otherwise they seem to work fine when the car is stationary. So i suspect the wiring is shorting out somewhere.

I noticed a bit of loom that is under the power steering fluid reservoir running from the windscreen motor to the headlight somewhere. Would anyone know if its part of the windscreen wiper circuit? Part of that loom has had the electrical tape melted since it sits quite close to the turbo hot side.

I thought the motor might have shorts but it is ok. Had a look at the relay board, looks ok.

If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403487-r33-windscreen-wiper-problem/
Share on other sites

Disconnect the motor and try again. Long story short it could be the self parking mechanism inside the motor shorting out. It has constant power to it at all times.

I can't think besides an earth for the motor why it would run that way.

I should have mentioned that i did that. Unplugged the motor and went for a drive, fuse was fine. Its doing the same thing though with the other 2nd hand motor i have. I'll see tomorrow when i strip away the tape and can check the wiring out. Cheers.

I should have mentioned that i did that. Unplugged the motor and went for a drive, fuse was fine. Its doing the same thing though with the other 2nd hand motor i have.

So doesn't blow fuses unplugged. but blows when both connected?

Tbh I don't exactly know on a 33 as mine hasn't played up. better check that melted section

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...