Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Thinking of repainting my Black V35. Thinking of sticking on to the black but would like some suggestions of better colour options(with photos if you have). Also what are the questions that i should be asking like what type of paint should i use and other info. Could someone give me rough price for the job.

Thanks a lot guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404273-v35-repaint-tips-and-suggestions/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey guys, few questions....cheap and best place to buy the paint in Brisbane...or do you think i shud order online....secondly is clear coat optional and do i need to buy some premium thinner for the paint...

buy the paint online? you are not going to try and paint it your self right? and clear coat, of course !!!!

$2500 or more for a respray from someone cheap..

$2500?! Would have thought that $4k would be a more appropriate number - for a decent job with proper clear applied that is.

Agreed, I had the turret (hood), and boot lid resprayed in another car a few years back now, and that was $900 - wasn't triple layer pearl paint either.. You can probably add 50% more if you want a pearl coat.

$2K would probably only get u a taxi paint job. i.e.: door jams, engine bay etc untouched. A proper paint full respray would cost you $5K++++++

so true i.e Sheldon's ._.

i would recommend just go BLACK so just in case unseen accidents color matching will be a breeze

i got a mate that goes car wrap pm me i can give more info on facebook

so true i.e Sheldon's ._.

f**k off, my paint job is awesome - 3 layer pearl for 2k (Usually he does it for 4k - 5k). Not painting inside the doors / engine pay isn't the biggest deal, my cars white, inside my doors are an off white - in no way is my paint job a "Taxi paint job"

Even if I had 5k to spend i'd still rather spend 2k to get what i've done. I would change nothing about my car.

Edited by sheldon2369

so true i.e Sheldon's ._.

i would recommend just go BLACK so just in case unseen accidents color matching will be a breeze

i got a mate that goes car wrap pm me i can give more info on facebook

.

Black is one of the worst colours to go with, although it does look amazing on most cars. Attracts heat and if you live in 25-30 degree heat every day you don't will suffer.

Scratches come up horribly and is very difficult to maintain, but if you take care of it and don't mind the extra heat then it can turn out being a very good investment.

f**k off, my paint job is awesome - 3 layer pearl for 2k (Usually he does it for 4k - 5k). Not painting inside the doors / engine pay isn't the biggest deal, my cars white, inside my doors are an off white - in no way is my paint job a "Taxi paint job"

Even if I had 5k to spend i'd still rather spend 2k to get what i've done. I would change nothing about my car.

You haven't changed colour mate. Pearl white on white is a pretty breezy job - compared to changing the colour all together.

Ever seen those cabs that are orange outside and inside is all blue still.. lol!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...