Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys ok. my r33 gtst s1 is feeling rattley and verry uneasy to drive i think the bushes are showing there age so i think its time to start replacing.

What i would like to know. Is which bushe/bushes are the most common to go that way ill get them first. the biggest uneasy thing ive noticed is i can feeleverypothole through the stearing wheel and i can feel little jerks as im driving and its getting anoying i have about 1 week till i take holidays through work so id like a list of all the bushes i would need so i can grab the parts through the week and work on the car on my time off.. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404676-bushes-what-needs-replaceing/
Share on other sites

Best thing to do is just jump under your car and look at what looks a bit suspect

hard to say what you should replace without knowing what is actually worn. Other then saying replace them all.

I've only had to change my front sway bar D-bushes in the front end of my 33. Have you still got standard suspension? Might have something to do with it also

Jump under and see what bushes look worn

hey mate, i've replaced pretty much every bush in the front end as I was getting knocking noises and I wanted to freshen up the steering since the 33's are getting on a bit. Here's a list of what i replaced: lower control arm ball joints, lower control arm bushes, tie rod ends, upper inner and outer control arm bushes (camber adjustable), swaybar endlinks, swaybar d link bushes, bc-br coilovers and hardrace castor/tension rods or you can just replace the castor rod bush if you don't want to replace the whole arm. I ended up replacing all bushes with superpro and cost roughly $350 from memory and about $100 for tie rod ends and ball joints. To get the old bushes out I recommend taking it to a mechanic to get the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pressed in. I took the control arms off myself to save some money. F*ck me was it worth it though lol. now on to the rear end bushes

Assuming you did the inner rack ends as well?

I have those solid caster arms on at the moment but haven't adjusted them properly, they are at Mac caster and it follows every groove in the road, it's not overly nice....

Thanks guys for the input i appreciate it all ive had a gander at some of the bushes and they look really weathered cracked and looking really dry so id say the lot needs doing the only suspension work done to the car is a set of extremly stiff tien d10s the car bounces a hell of alot im not worried about it bouncing im more worried about the knocking the car doesnt feel sexy to drive anymore.. I just wanted a run through of the suspension because im currently doing an engine swap for another rb25det from a wreckers as the cureent one fitted seems to have a worn out big end bearing causing knocking on start up so to keep my mind at ease ill be putting another second hand unit in it whilst i rebuild the other one.. the car is my daily driver yeah its not the best looking 33 it doesnt have the best paint job and everyone tells me to sell it but i just can not spend a day with out driving her so yep engine swap in 2 weeks then focusing on suspension.. once again guys thanks =D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...