Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed some coolant on top of my radiator around the edges, does not seem to be coming from the centre. Futhermore i can here hissing noises coming from the raditor cap (sealed tight). No change in Engine tempreature and coolant level seems to be okay just wandering if these are signs thats its useful life is over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405446-is-my-radiator-about-to-cark-it/
Share on other sites

Noticed some coolant on top of my radiator around the edges, does not seem to be coming from the centre. Futhermore i can here hissing noises coming from the raditor cap (sealed tight). No change in Engine tempreature and coolant level seems to be okay just wandering if these are signs thats its useful life is over.

Got pics of this? The cap could be stuffed and not sealing which will be a cheaper fix for you!

If you can show us where etc we should be able to help..... Whats the radiator look like in general? Any cracks or signs of fail?

UPDATE: turns out its a leak dudes being my bored self went down stairs to investigate the issue incase i missed something and barely able to see the little bubbling that happening at the bottom of the pastic of where the cap goes :domokun: this explains it, its a small leak nothing to bad, i think this means i need to change my radiator or find some type of sealent good enough to stop this little leak.

post-75998-0-36048900-1343119318_thumb.jpg

Dat alloy is tempting ill spray HKS in black on it (JKS), quick fix wont last long but just enough time for me to get cash and get in a new radiator, water pump and timing belt while im at it :yes: mech said he will need to take off radiator to the job so he can do the swap over while his at it, maybe save some coin.

Edited by starwarz

You'd be surprised how good the stock ones are.... I run 360rwkw and have no cooling issues and the race car (identical setup) does track day after track day and stock radiator ;)

Update: i have been searching the internet for aftermarket alloy radiators but so far all i find are Manual compatiable types, i hear you can fit the manual radiator along side an external transmission cooler. However i hear that its not efficent to have transmission hooked up to just an transmission cooler, it should only be used as a support mechanism for the actual radiator. Then again i hear that the R33 automatic is not hooked up to the radiator at all and is acutally running on this transmission cooler. So what do you guys think, will external transmission cooler along side an manual type radiator seem sufficient. If so how many rows should i consider i dont want to be sending my transmission to the grave.

Ill give it a go, changing it over does not seem like a difficult process might end up doing that myself. But im going to abandon manual radiator along side a external transmission cooler seems to be a very limited amount of information concerning that, it would be better to buy the proper radiator that can be hooked up to the transmission lines.
Edited by starwarz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...