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good susp for my line ?

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mist Community Regular

mist

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APEXi N1 Type PRO, Zeal Function S6 and one of the HKS Hipermax coilovers, the PRO i think? Excellent circuit suspension, but fragile for road use - aluminium construction easily damaged as it's really stiff, and you'll need to strip it for a clean every 3 months or so if u drive it everyday (not a good idea).

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Silver-Arrowz is on the money... my two bucks fitty...swaybars, an alignment and good rubber will mean you will always go quicker then someone with a killer susp setup on road rubber

Thing is the track susp you cant use on the street. Not becuase its overly stiff, doesnt need to be stiff to work really well, but because the geometry you need to use to get the most out of your sticky rubber will kill tyres when used day to day driving.

mist Community Regular

mist

Posted
Posted

i used to run D01Js, not good for developing skills as i relied too much on the tyre's grip. i've got Azenis RT215 now, they are street compounds, and I'm driving better + faster lap times with them. i believe if I put on D01Js now, i'll be able to exploit them better ;)

Roy Grand Master

Roy

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Plus they let go a lot quicker, where with street tyres the car doesnt load up near as much and ultimately seems a little easier to handle at the limit.

For track work i woudl just get an alignembt and swaybars. Thats a road car that gets used 2-4 times a year at the track. If its a track car that gets driven to the track 10-12 times a year, then thats an entirely different story....how much have you to spend?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, we have tyres for the track and tyres for the road. So when we go to the track I jack the car up to change the wheels. While the front is in the air and the wheels are off, I add 2 degrees of negative camber (from 0.5 to 2.5) and adjust the front stabiliser bar up 2 settings. This only adds a minute or two to the time it takes to jack the car up and change the wheels. I then do the rear, add 1 degree of negative (from 0.5 to 1.5) and adjust the rear stabiliser bar up 1 or 2 (depending on track and conditions). When we finish for the day, I simply reverse the process.

This works well, saves heaps on tyre wear (the road tyres don't wear out on the inside and the track tyres don't wear out on the outside), it doesn't take very long and the lap times are much improved. For a handfull of events during the year it is a good solution.

Hope that helps

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

When you say you adjust the caber settings, do you have adjustable control arms, eccentric/offset bushes... ??

Also i assume you have a caster/camber gauge, to measure the settings, i havent been able to find one for less then $500.

I suppose buying a caster/camber gauge makes $$$ sense if you are wanting to adjust your road cars susp.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

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Posted

Hi Troy, we use eccentric (Whiteline) bushes on the GTST, the GTR has adjustable arms (Noltec). On the GTST I have marked the degrees of rotation required to change 2 degrees (front) and 1 degree (rear). So it is easy to change from one to the other, just line up the red marks. We do have 2 portable camber gauges (one digital and one bubble style) but I don't need them for the GTST.

You have to think about it, measure and mark it the first time, but after that it's easy.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Cool, ill give that a go, whats the max camber you can get out of the Whiteline bushes?

I did have eccentric inner and outer so i could run 3.5 neg, but the Nolathane bushes had crapped themselves, so Chris put in a set of Whiteline bushes (its the 2nd Whiteline set that have been in the car)

The Whiteline kit now on the car only has eccentric outer bush so just curious to what amount of camber can now be dialled in.

Should also metion the Whiteline bushes seem to be better quality, and are easier to grease properly

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