Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone direct me to a wiring diagram for an R32? i am trying to install an alarm and immobiliser into the car and am looking for the best place to get a 12v and ACC power at the back of the car (hicas or attessa ecu???).also if anyone would like to PM me what they think is the best circuit to disable the car that would be great.I am also having trouble getting the trim out of the rear of the coupe and even the rear seat seems to not want to come out.I am doing this for a mate and he wants his car back in a week. ( i have already wasted a week waiting for my account at SDU to be activated...AAAARRRGGGHHH!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405735-r32-gts4-wiring-help-urgent/
Share on other sites

Give him his car back , your begging for bad things to happen if your stuck already

and never pull power off ecu's for anything

where did you buy the alarm they should help you or shouldnt have sold it without install to start with

Sorry but alarms are best left to pro's in 99% of the cases home install ends in failure

i'm a sparky so wiring is not a problem. the alarm that is currently installed by a "pro" is a JOKE and could be found and disabled in seconds.

Ive never worked on a skyline but have installed and tuned ECU's before. ( I have a turbo'd MX5)

i just want to get the GPS tracker installed and hidden much much better than the "pro" did the alarm install. I figure it was better to pick a 12v and acc feed from the ones feeding the rear electronics rather than run non standard wires to the front.What about the plug that feeds the "active speaker" amp?

as i have trawled the net for info and diags i have come the realsiation that the skyline world has very little info available compared to the usual car places i hang out.

not knowing the skyline wiring inside out i figured here would be a good place to start

Edited by SLYDIT

Your right the word "pro" is vauge just because a Car audio or alarm shop installed it doesnt mean its right , but a 12v sparky is even worse lol sorry its true , i'm sure theyre is exceptions around ?

And mobile installers are fine for somethings but not for a well hidden job it just takes too long to do it from a van in crap weather while customer stands above them

Your giving away the location of the items on the Net too now not wise

Like I said do not pull ground or power off any ecu items or weird things happen some fatal to owner or car and hard to figure out once hacked by items that dont belong hooked up to those

and no fuel related items either , nissans have low voltage conditions from ecu transistor and can drop well below 12v running which would be fatal to ecu and most likely tracker

most GPS trackers are slammed in or substandard jaycar plastic models that arent up to australian conditions longterm , real installers would hide it so well even the dealer wouldnt find it looking all day long !!!

Edited by Carbon 34

best place to hide it is behind speedo cluster can not be seen from under dash and cant be tampered with or power disabled without disconecting battery but the gps shuld have battery back up and if it doesnt your wasting your time installing it

best place to hide it is behind speedo cluster can not be seen from under dash and cant be tampered with or power disabled without disconecting battery but the gps shuld have battery back up and if it doesnt your wasting your time installing it

Yeah cool story bro

Worse place to put it

Your a mupppet we dont disclose security details in a public forum car theft is bad enough without help from wanna be "pro installers "

Try being helpful in other ways ffs

And we tend not to want DIY car security installs because 99% get it wrong , nobody likes to fix someone elses mess when it comes to alarms

i am quite happy for people to reply to me via private message. i have everything installed except the immobiliser circuit. id like to immobilise the fuel pump but cannot find the wire in the loom. If someone would like to be helpful and tell me where/what colour it is that would be great (PM me)

i am quite happy for people to reply to me via private message. i have everything installed except the immobiliser circuit. id like to immobilise the fuel pump but cannot find the wire in the loom. If someone would like to be helpful and tell me where/what colour it is that would be great (PM me)

So let me get this right your a sparky for 12v and cant find the fuel pump wire or google it properly ? Seriously step away from the car and do not help anyone until your better trained on how a car works and how to interface the systems without damage or danger to the owner or car

I tell it like I see it

I'm being a dick for a reason , to save someone heartache from bad advice , not to attack you personally ( not everone knows it all and never will ) but the warning signs are in about your skill level

thank you come again

no i am an industrial sparky with advanced trade wit h15 years experience in medical and process control WHO DOESNT HAVE TIME to pull the rear of the car apart looking at every plug connection to find the fuel pump wiring...like i said i was pushed for time and needed it done...... too f**ken late now thanks for being such a farken smartass. you could have just answered the question and given me the info that i needed but no..... you decided to be a know it all. thanks for nothing. now i know why i dont own a skyline. muppet.

Edited by SLYDIT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...