Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 4Door Part Out, 2Way, Cage, Tein He, Cusco, Apexi, Greddy


Recommended Posts

No lowballs please

R32 4 door rolling shell, pearl white, Mod plates for rollcage, rb25 motor and manual box.

Nardi s/wheel, most of interior, bosch 040 f/pump, HEL braided brake lines, RB25DET loom, hicas lock bar.

Stock brakes, suspension and arms, 16x7' stagea wheels, Big battery in boot and new stereo.

Currently has 6 months rego with 327AXI plates,

No motor, box, diff or shafts, No bonnet or front bar, No front seats or rear sway bar.

$3500

Safety21 R32 4door 5seat rollcage, 6 point bolt in with padding.

Rare as and minimal intrusion, Hugs window line and even had baby seat in back!

$1000

Tein HE Driftmaster coilovers

8k-6k Two way height adjustable

Damper adjustment

$800

Nismo 2 way LSD, R200 non abs housing with 4.3 gears, 5 bolt shafts included

Always spins 2 wheels!

$700

Big Brake Kit suit R32 or silvia

DBA 4000 slotted GTR brembo 328mm rotors

Unique autosports caliper adaptors/dogbones

All near new

$750

Cusco rear upper control arms

Adjust your camber bro!

$250

Cusco R32 GTR 30mm rear sway

Includes Solid links

$250

R32 GTST front upper control arms

Solid & Adjustable, Bearings replaced.

Adjust your camber bro!

$250

RG front tension rods

Castor adjustment and solid

$150

R32 GTR plastic front bar, lip and grill

Few marks on bar, lip ok and all black.

$500

R32 GTR alloy bonnet

Been modified to fit 30

Cheap and White

$300

R32 4door Mspec side skirts

Few marks and Plastic

$200

Sabelt GT1 fixed back seat x2

Black in very good condition, FIA approved

$650

2x bottom mount seat brackets suit R32-33

$250

Apexi Power FC suit R33 RB25DET

Hand controller, Z32 air flow meter and K&N air filter included

PITS tune for GT30r, 750cc, Z32, plenum & 80mm throttle.

$1000

Splitfire coilpacks suit R33 series 1 & GTR

$350

Nismo 750cc injectors

Standard fuel rail modified with extra fuel feed.

$650

T67-25G 10cm kando, Tial MVR 44mm, manifold, dump and screamer

Turbo only few months old, still under warranty

Wastegate mounted off exhaust housing and includes flanges and flex for plumback

Stainless hi mount manifold, mild dump and screamer

$1250

Greddy GREX oil cooler kit

Includes filter relocator, big cooler and thermostat.

New lines fitted 6 mths ago

$550

R32 40mm Alloy Radiator & 16' electric fan

$220

R32 4 door 3' exhausts

Race - full 3' twin 3' tips, no mufflers

Street - Full 3', big rear stainless muffler

Twin 2.5-3' rail slider front pipe & std cat

$450

Twin bosch 044 fuel pumps, big surge tank and 8mm fittings

$450

More to come!

Sam 0423 648 114

Gold Coast

Edited by 32TAXI

post-58828-0-65533500-1343810384_thumb.jpg

post-58828-0-83938200-1343810504_thumb.jpg

Spares:

R32 4 dr Bootlid, no holes or dents, white $80

R32 4 dr series 2 tailights $150

R32 projector headlights $150

R32 centre console and lid still attached $50

R34 GTT 4x 17x7.5 Wheels, 2x good 235 tyres $200

Open to offers

Edited by 32TAXI

Sell me ur rear window? Lol

Just build a another one lol - shell, cage, coilovers = $5k + your motor, box,diff, seats, bonnet and bar!

splitfires, gtr bar n 4dr skirts SOLD

Edited by 32TAXI

Leyt me know if sale falls through on headlights mate, super keen, wouldn't be willing to sell indicators as well? Cant find a decent set anywhere!

Would you freight the tail lights to WA?

Yes, Freight no probs, best PM me for details

All still available:

PowerFC and Z32 afm $1000

T67-25g+Tial MVR+rb25 mani,dump and screamer $1250

Tein HE driftmaster coilovers R32gtst $800

Nismo 2way R200 non abs 4.3 gears 5 bolt shafts $700

Front upper adjustable control arm R32gtst $250

Cusco Rear upper adjustable control arm R32-S13 $250

Cusco Rear sway bar+solidlinks 28mm R32GTR $250

DBA4000 328mm rotors & UAS adaptors R32-S13 $800

bump for a a seriously straight body 4dr!, btw very happy with the bar and skirts, cheers mate :)

Thanks Guys, Very uphappy to see it go!

R32 4door complete car less drivetrain, front seats and front bar $3000ono (modplated LH8,LO1,LA1,LK6)

Add a 6 point rollcage $1000

And "coaster's" RB25DET manual conversion $1650 = legal fun!

Edited by 32TAXI
  • 2 weeks later...

Shell, Cage, Turbo, seats & radiator Sold

Whats left:

Cusco rear arms $250

Cusco rear sway bar $250

R32 twin front pipe $150

R32 3' straight catback $200

Big Brake rotor kit $700ono



  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...