Jump to content
SAU Community

petrol saving device

_turtle_

By _turtle_,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
Posted

hey guys, just wondering if anyone saw this advertisement in last weeks herald sun, or 2 weeks ago about a device which gives better fuel consumption. it was in the section where the cars are sold. from memory, i think it cost $60, not sure, i've got a pretty bad memory, but it was fairly cheap. i had a quick glimpse at it and then wen i remembered about it again the paper had already gone for paper recycling day.

did anyone else see it? what sorta thing could do that for so cheap?

im damn curious, coz if it does work, i know that i'd pay $60 for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4066-petrol-saving-device/
Share on other sites
Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

Yeah I have one on my car, Peter Brock made it, it's called the Polariser and the fuel passes over rare earth rocks and minerals and other crud and polarises the fuel resulting in less fuel used.

Bahahahaahahha!!

If you engine is in perfect tune, reducing the amount of fuel entering without reducing the amount of air entering will destroy your engine by leaning it out.

Think about it, if it reduced consumption and improved emissions as they claim, why would the manufacturer not use these devices? Only a braindead twit would buy one of these devices for any car produced after the 80's....

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by BiteMe

This test was done on Current affairs and they showed that it increased performance and reduced emmissions. It is meant to excite the fuel atoms so they burn better. It does not restrict the amount of fuel that passes as well,

Bullsh...t................

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I saw that same test.

There were actually two tests.

One was a fuel addative which didn't really work that well then there was the inline fuel filter type one which apparently did work well on the dyno and reduce emmissions by doing something to the fuel atoms.

It was extremly expensive not $60 somthing like a few hundred dollars I thought.

Its not bullshit, but the improvements were very minimal.

hence not worth laying out the money.

If you want to save money run std boost be light on the foot and run Std. Unleaded.

Well Us 32 owners can with the 8.5:1CR, I'm pretty sure you R33 owners can't but as they are prone to pinging anyhow.

I've tested my car on Std. Unleaded with 17deg timing, std ecu, full exhaust & std boost and there is no pinging.

BUT.. With the Std Exhaust it would ping a little higher in the rev's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      RB25DET Series 1 & Series 2 Gearbox Identification

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He should do an LS7 too...
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25DET Series 1 & Series 2 Gearbox Identification

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...