Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i hav replaced distributor cap n rotor, leads, plugs, fuel filter, crank angle and mass flow meter and the problem just gets a lil bit better but a lil diffrent at the same time. now sometimes it will run like a dream a but as soon as the engine is under load i can smell unburnt fuel real bad now occasionally while idling it kinda drops tryna stall n if i accelerat itl run like shit with a tinge of black smoke but after sum reving will come right again. in this last day or 2 iv been just driving along and it dies acceleration doesnt work , stinks of fuel until it stops then after a min will start and drive no problem until it decides 2 happen again completely at random....anyone please got any ideas im about 2 maybe replace the power transistor next 2 the distributor as iv noticed it getting rather hot but iv only had it six months and just cant seem 2 get it running smooth all the time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406994-rb30-just-wont-run-properly/
Share on other sites

kia ora, Could be a vacumn or leak in the intake manifold, try reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery. Is it turbo? or, lowered.

AAC valve could be dirty causing ECU to richen up

Cold idle sensor

If it's a A, C or R chassis and lowered you could have stripped a few wires under the front guards.

Cheers

hey bro nah non turbot not lowered..yet do you think it would be a leak seeming it all happens so randomly its had these random problems since i got it the old fulla i got it off had no clue what was wrong all iv modified is replaced leaking exhaust manifold with extractor/headers its got me f**ked

Similar to my 25de problem, but at the same time completely different, mine doesn't blow smoke nor does it smell of unburnt fuel! I agree with above maybe try checking for a vacuum/leak in the intake manifold??

yea like 80% of the time it runs sweet goes hard but then it does it n seems 2 lose power round 4000rpm kinda lags its so intermittent n random makes me think its a sensor rather than leak. im up every day early hours pissin round wv it its shit. i got a bosch afm 4 mine from my x sparky seems 2 work fine. and try that link just above your 1 4 your kar there heaps ov info on thea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...