Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all you should do is use the q45 tb and put the rb25 tps on it

It's not that simple. Here a pic so you can see the difference. http://rb25det.org/rb/tps.jpg

left SII, right Q45 (unknown year, pre 1995)

the USDM 1996 Q45 TPS looks like it wil plug into SII harness but I don't know if it will bolt to the greddy IM.

hmm they look kinda the same design but the turning mechanism seem to have different joins or something.

have u got a 1996 q45 tps?

my guess would to be either go this way or u will have to have the tps custom fitted

Nope don't have a 96 tps, however I do have a 96 Q45 FSM. The TPS it shows is similar to the SII TPS, they may have the same P/N.

But getting back to the issue, why does my TPS read ~5V at idle with the SII tps or the Q45 TPS? When at WOT the voltage drops to ~.5V.

Seems it's reversed.

Some guesses......(based on R32)

*you are measuring the voltage between the wrong two terminals. The supply voltage to ground measurement should be 5V. The signal to ground measurement should vary ~0.5V-4V.

*If not the above then are you sure the TPS's are wired in the same way. Because it is a potentiometer if you swap the + & - wiring it will read in reverse.

*Are you sure the TB's actually open with the same rotation eg RB30 and RB20 TB's open in different ways - one opens clockwise and the other opens anticlockwise. The TPS's are therefore designed to rotate in opposite ways and so mixing and matching can mean the output can get reversed.

As a check, get a multimeter and measure the TPS resistance (signal to gound) at idle position and at WOT position (both with the plug disconnected). What readings do you get for both TPS's?

Have you got the connectors on the right way round?

There are 2 TPSs - a Trotlle Position SWITCH, which normally tells the ECU that the throttle is closed or WOT, and a Throttle Position SENSOR, which tells the ECU where how far the throttle is open.

I'm the other guy having the same problem. Both Q45 and RB25 TPSs show ~5V at idle and ~.5 at WOT. I'm pretty sure I have it connected to the right sensor, not the switch. I measured the resistances of both. They both showed ~0.8 kOhms at idle and ~4 kOhms at WOT. When I measure the harness side of the plug (unplugged), I get 5V on one wire, ~4V on the middle wire, and 0V on the last. Is that right, can someone be so kind as to measure theirs for comparison?

Also, can anyone tell me how to check the codes on my ecu? I have an SII RB25, but it has no LED or adjustment screw on the ecu case?

On the R32's there is a diagnostic connector. This is a small brown plug located at the fuse box.

To enter the diagnostic mode you need to short two of the terminals for two seconds. This then puts the computer into check mode and it flashes the results on the ECU led and the engine check light (these are on the same circuit).

I don't know if R33 is different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...