Jump to content
SAU Community

Willall Transmission Oil? Diff Oil? Thoughts?


Recommended Posts

I am recently thinking to use Willall oil for my major service.

However my friend is talking me into not using it because he knows people who have a sensor fail in the gearbox after using Willall oil.

He also said that Willall oil causes the rear LSD to have excessive noice.

Has anyone experienced these? Or fine in a long run after using Willall oils?

Please advise whether it is good to go ahead or not.

Thanks

yea would love to have any opinions. Thanks in advance

Well thats easy. Take what your 'friend' told you, invert it, and theres your answer.

I wont go on about it, I will let those that have spent their own hard earned give their own real world experiences :)

Well thats easy. Take what your 'friend' told you, invert it, and theres your answer.

I wont go on about it, I will let those that have spent their own hard earned give their own real world experiences :)

Well I have done a bit of read up and most people seem to be happy with the WR oil apart from the warranty issue. I am still leaning towards using Willall oil after hearing what my friend has told me. However since I am new to the GTR world so thats why I am asking it here...

I will most likely be moving to the Willall transmission fluid after my warranty runs out.

My GTR tech is against it but I have heard good things about it.

I am currently on OEM. I am also getting my transmission fixed under warranty in a few weeks. It was already a bit of a battle with getting the warranty approved on OEM fluids (consisted of multiple visits to the HPC, sound and video clips, complaints to Nissan Australia etc). I do not if I would have had the same outcome if I was on Willall though?

I will most likely be moving to the Willall transmission fluid after my warranty runs out.

My GTR tech is against it but I have heard good things about it.

I am currently on OEM. I am also getting my transmission fixed under warranty in a few weeks. It was already a bit of a battle with getting the warranty approved on OEM fluids (consisted of multiple visits to the HPC, sound and video clips, complaints to Nissan Australia etc). I do not if I would have had the same outcome if I was on Willall though?

Could you elaborate what the symptons of your tranny were?

Could you elaborate what the symptons of your tranny were?

Loud rattle (sounds like marbles) during acceleration from standstill or slow speeds (between 900-1300 rpm). At idle, there is rattling but it's the 'normal' rattling and nothing like the ones in NAGTROC. There are no noises in park/neutral revving.

Gets annoying/embarrasing when I am in start/stop traffic or parking and I need to step on the accelerator often as the rattle appears.

Currently, there is prop shaft play but within tolerance. Noise appeared a month ago and getting louder. Have done 0 launches.

Ecl, sounds like your bell-housing needs fixing.

Have your Nissan 'tech' unbolt the prop-shaft from the back of it, then check the freeplay - it will be excessive

Martin, are you aware of the same bellhousing issue with the 2010's and beyond?

I have the usual rattles as well, and while stationary in gear only a very very slight rattle when the car is hot, but nothing noticeable above 2000rpms. Of course in P or N after the car is stationary and hot parked in my garage after a run, the rattle is fairly noisy, but not excessive like some youtube vids. I am however hearing a very very very faint higher pitched rattle somewhere in the back while driving @ 60+ kph on fairly smooth roads though (definitely not the brake pad rattle) - not sure if this is the seat belt housing issue others have experienced, or something else under the car. The Nissan tech mentioned it at the last service and said to keep an ear on it if it gets any louder they'll investigate further. Its not loud though, and certainly hasn't increased in volume - for all I know its probably just the fly wheel and normal sounds. My GTR has also had 0 launches (that I know of :P), so not currently too worried about it.

Edited by Wardski

Gets annoying/embarrasing when I am in start/stop traffic or parking and I need to step on the accelerator often as the rattle appears.

I hate the brake pad rattle, and get embarrassed when travelling thru the brisbane city and run over 10 bazzillion bumps in the road I can hear the clanging noise echo off the buildings.... farks sake..

Edited by Wardski

I hate the brake pad rattle, and get embarrassed when travelling thru the brisbane city and run over 10 bazzillion bumps in the road I can hear the clanging noise echo off the buildings.... farks sake..

Yeah, that is bad as well. I drive on the motorway where is basically a wall on one side and construction happening. I get to hear the rattle pretty much every day =(

Martin - yeah, Nissan is offering the replacement so it's all good =) hopefully they give me the newer model bellhousing. The dealer said they only have 1 part number that they order from. Also, they can now do it without dropping the engine.

I am recently thinking to use Willall oil for my major service.

However my friend is talking me into not using it because he knows people who have a sensor fail in the gearbox after using Willall oil.

He also said that Willall oil causes the rear LSD to have excessive noice.

Has anyone experienced these? Or fine in a long run after using Willall oils?

Please advise whether it is good to go ahead or not.

Thanks

I'm running all Willall fluids in an Alpha 12 setup that puts out significantly more power than stock. No issues at all at his end. I think your friend is relying on a lot of heresay and has not used the Willall fluids. Make the change, you won't be dissapointed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...