Jump to content
SAU Community

Willall Transmission Oil? Diff Oil? Thoughts?

jona1986

By jona1986,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

jona1986 Contributor

jona1986

Posted
Posted

I am recently thinking to use Willall oil for my major service.

However my friend is talking me into not using it because he knows people who have a sensor fail in the gearbox after using Willall oil.

He also said that Willall oil causes the rear LSD to have excessive noice.

Has anyone experienced these? Or fine in a long run after using Willall oils?

Please advise whether it is good to go ahead or not.

Thanks

Martin Donnon Mentor

Martin Donnon

Posted
Posted

yea would love to have any opinions. Thanks in advance

Well thats easy. Take what your 'friend' told you, invert it, and theres your answer.

I wont go on about it, I will let those that have spent their own hard earned give their own real world experiences :)

jona1986 Contributor

jona1986

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well thats easy. Take what your 'friend' told you, invert it, and theres your answer.

I wont go on about it, I will let those that have spent their own hard earned give their own real world experiences :)

Well I have done a bit of read up and most people seem to be happy with the WR oil apart from the warranty issue. I am still leaning towards using Willall oil after hearing what my friend has told me. However since I am new to the GTR world so thats why I am asking it here...

ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

I will most likely be moving to the Willall transmission fluid after my warranty runs out.

My GTR tech is against it but I have heard good things about it.

I am currently on OEM. I am also getting my transmission fixed under warranty in a few weeks. It was already a bit of a battle with getting the warranty approved on OEM fluids (consisted of multiple visits to the HPC, sound and video clips, complaints to Nissan Australia etc). I do not if I would have had the same outcome if I was on Willall though?

turboadam Enthusiast

turboadam

Posted
Posted

I will most likely be moving to the Willall transmission fluid after my warranty runs out.

My GTR tech is against it but I have heard good things about it.

I am currently on OEM. I am also getting my transmission fixed under warranty in a few weeks. It was already a bit of a battle with getting the warranty approved on OEM fluids (consisted of multiple visits to the HPC, sound and video clips, complaints to Nissan Australia etc). I do not if I would have had the same outcome if I was on Willall though?

Could you elaborate what the symptons of your tranny were?

ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

Could you elaborate what the symptons of your tranny were?

Loud rattle (sounds like marbles) during acceleration from standstill or slow speeds (between 900-1300 rpm). At idle, there is rattling but it's the 'normal' rattling and nothing like the ones in NAGTROC. There are no noises in park/neutral revving.

Gets annoying/embarrasing when I am in start/stop traffic or parking and I need to step on the accelerator often as the rattle appears.

Currently, there is prop shaft play but within tolerance. Noise appeared a month ago and getting louder. Have done 0 launches.

Wardski Rising Star

Wardski

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ecl, sounds like your bell-housing needs fixing.

Have your Nissan 'tech' unbolt the prop-shaft from the back of it, then check the freeplay - it will be excessive

Martin, are you aware of the same bellhousing issue with the 2010's and beyond?

I have the usual rattles as well, and while stationary in gear only a very very slight rattle when the car is hot, but nothing noticeable above 2000rpms. Of course in P or N after the car is stationary and hot parked in my garage after a run, the rattle is fairly noisy, but not excessive like some youtube vids. I am however hearing a very very very faint higher pitched rattle somewhere in the back while driving @ 60+ kph on fairly smooth roads though (definitely not the brake pad rattle) - not sure if this is the seat belt housing issue others have experienced, or something else under the car. The Nissan tech mentioned it at the last service and said to keep an ear on it if it gets any louder they'll investigate further. Its not loud though, and certainly hasn't increased in volume - for all I know its probably just the fly wheel and normal sounds. My GTR has also had 0 launches (that I know of :P), so not currently too worried about it.

Edited by Wardski
Wardski Rising Star

Wardski

Posted
Posted (edited)

Gets annoying/embarrasing when I am in start/stop traffic or parking and I need to step on the accelerator often as the rattle appears.

I hate the brake pad rattle, and get embarrassed when travelling thru the brisbane city and run over 10 bazzillion bumps in the road I can hear the clanging noise echo off the buildings.... farks sake..

Edited by Wardski
ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

I hate the brake pad rattle, and get embarrassed when travelling thru the brisbane city and run over 10 bazzillion bumps in the road I can hear the clanging noise echo off the buildings.... farks sake..

Yeah, that is bad as well. I drive on the motorway where is basically a wall on one side and construction happening. I get to hear the rattle pretty much every day =(

Martin - yeah, Nissan is offering the replacement so it's all good =) hopefully they give me the newer model bellhousing. The dealer said they only have 1 part number that they order from. Also, they can now do it without dropping the engine.

SlipR35 Enthusiast

SlipR35

Posted
Posted

I am recently thinking to use Willall oil for my major service.

However my friend is talking me into not using it because he knows people who have a sensor fail in the gearbox after using Willall oil.

He also said that Willall oil causes the rear LSD to have excessive noice.

Has anyone experienced these? Or fine in a long run after using Willall oils?

Please advise whether it is good to go ahead or not.

Thanks

I'm running all Willall fluids in an Alpha 12 setup that puts out significantly more power than stock. No issues at all at his end. I think your friend is relying on a lot of heresay and has not used the Willall fluids. Make the change, you won't be dissapointed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
×
×
  • Create New...