Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 242
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Sim32

hey i just got my car, for a week it was fine, ran great.

but now the thing seem to do exactly what u guys have been describing. like stalling when u slow down at a lights..well not stalling just dipping real low, 100 + rpm then then just before cutting out the engine seems to regather itsself and go up again. But it fluctuates heaps, and just doesnt sit on a nice idle speed like it did. The car has stalled on me about 3 times..

starting to annoy me..

What is this ACC valve u speak of? and where is it? and how can u clean it??

also, do u have any pics of earthing the fuel pump?

cheers.

Sim32,

For RB20-25 motor

The AAC valve (Auxilliary Air Control Valve) is located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car.

then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works.

Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) hope this helps!

It really is quite easy!

Stuttering might be spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines)

MEGA

  • 2 weeks later...

hmm thats not the way I understand it works on an RB20.....

The ECU just looks to switch the power to the fuel pump via the relay so that:

*When the ignition is turned on, the pump is powered for 5 sec

*When the engine is cranking/running the pump is powered

I think that the ecu uses a signal from the AFM to determine when the engine is cranking/running. This means that in the event of an accident where the engine stops, the ecu will turn the fuel pump off - a safety feature.

The fuel pump control modulator also acts like a relay to control the voltage (and hence current) across the fuel pump by switching a resistor in and out. The resistor is located between the pump and earth and the switching is controlled by a signal from the ECU.

So if you earth the pump straight to the chassis it will always receive full voltage and therefore run at full capacity whenever the ecu wants the it to run. (You might as well also remove the control modulator and resistor because this effectively short circuits their operation)

If you short the relay then the modulator should still control the pump in the same way as before but you have just removed the functionality of the fuel cut safety feature.

I have any of this wrong someone please correct me.

Im having similar problems with my rb20det silvia. A mechanic friend adjusted an idle thing on the back of the manifold. It has improved but occasionally the idle drops and raises dramatically and when changing down gears sometimes it stalls. I have new iridium plugs, new vl turbo fuel pump. Do you think that maybe i need a regulator at all? This is really bugging me.

well after doing what brownie has told me is *wrong* i have not had a problem at all and im the envy of my mates with 32/33's as all have bad idles.

Thats only the way I understand the system operates.

If you want me to, I can post up a schematic of the fuel system and you can explain how it works.

Guest VuDuDoc
Originally posted by Nizmo32_Josh

no left the earth on the fuel pump alone and bypassed a relay

can you explain which spades are by passed? i look at the top and see the numbering on the relay but what is by passed?

and could it be that the pump is stuck in somewhat of an idle where pump output doesnt vary with accelertation/deceleration?

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
    • Potentially some interesting data for some of you here; Hank Iroz from Iroz Motorsport testing a new Xona Rotor 5964S on a Audi RS3 2.5L DAZA motor. https://facebook.com/share/p/14EU18MyDqZ/ Cliff Notes: Turbo has the new Xona XRE compressor aero with an X4C compressor cover, reportedly 0.64 rear housing. 900whp (670kw) @ 37psi, 170k shaft speed, motor is making 2bar (29psi) boost by roughly 3800rpm, 500lbft (670nm) torque by 3500rpm. They overlaid a stock RS3 on USA 91 fuel (red), and a "Stage 2" RS3 on E85 (yellow), and this 5964S (blue) - the 5964S isn't losing any ground to either. Apparently out-flowing their prior tests with a Xona 8264S (green), and this 5964S (white) also has a smaller A/R than that did.
×
×
  • Create New...