THIS LOW RPM ENGINE STALLING SAGA POSSIBLY SORTED

[RJB]

Hi all.

Same old story here too. But after reading much of the chat on here are there a few fundermental issues being missed?

Where did these cars come from?

Japan! One of the smallest countries, yet hold a rather large chunck of the automobile industry. (For us they do anyway).

The electonics would cop a pounding over there, considering the EPA law over there lots of people are driving so one would expect lots of short trips and a little stop and go in between, possibly.

Then there is the weather. How does your battery manage on those cold frosty days, taking into account that the warmer days over there are 20C - 25C otherwise most parts are sub 15C.

So you could assume your alternator has already had a hard life before it gets to you. (Unless your lucky and drive 2000-2001 model).

So your battery may have been replaced but I doubt your alternator has....

Combined with a fancy car alarm and nasty stereo system your battery could hold that new battery current for every.

I does seem ironic however in that what seems to be an effort to reduce emissions they have also decreased the long term safety rating or the cars equiped with this fuel system.

I'am no expert, these are just some idea's good or bad!

I like the earthing idea.

[Mase]

I recently fixed my problem. The timing was at 35deg adv instead of 20deg and the o2 sensor wasn't receiving full current. Now the vaiable idling has stopped and it is sounding a bit better but not going as hard which is understandable with the decrease in timing. What i don't understand tho is why my car wasn't pinging if the timing was at 35deg?

[gtrhybrid]

My 180 rb26dett hybrid does that all the time and even stall sometimes but my question is which wire is the earth wire?

[the phantom]

look here for more info on this issue....

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...?threadid=24664

yeah I know its the other site!!!

[^DRIFTIN skyliner^]

yea my r32 has the exact problem of when i come to lights or something it revs really low an sometimes jus cuts out.. very embarresing.. sorry im a bit new to everything but with the explanation that boostmeister gave on how to fix it .. where would i find the earth wire.. is it jus black?>? where bouts should i look?>?thanx man

[mose]

Thanks for the Tip, I am having a similar problem - The engine stalls/struggles sometimes when idling (especially when warm) - And sometime it idles EXACTLY at 2,000rpm, Many people have said it is the computer (HKS FCON V Pro) playing up, but who really knows - Any Ideas????

But I will be sure to try your tip... It it works then I will be over the moon...

Thanks

[cobo_11]

This might be a really stupid idea, but might not be:

One of (that I know of) my coil packs is playing up, when it is cold I can feel the cylinder kick in and out and it revs all over the show. I have been told one of my coil packs is playing up by the guys at AVO, so I know it's that. Maybe you guys experiencing the weird idling have a bad coil pack too?

And by the way, my car doesn't stall on idle, so maybe my problem and your problems are totally different?

Hope it helps somewhat.

PS: Does anyone know where to get second-hand or even new coil packs that don't cost the earth?

[AutoTrust]

Nice work boostmeister, I'll try that mod soon, I have an auto R33 and had stalling problems initially caused by the atmospheric venting BOV not recirculating the boost pressure back into the inlet, this was rectified by tightening the spring in the BOV. the reason it stalled was because the transmission would shift into second gear thus dropping the rpm, ususlly while backing off around a corner at low speed. I am now playing with a modified computer from a manual 33 that comes with its own stalling problems as well as dropping cylinders occasionally but this is ok condidering i am running 0.9bar now and the transmission computer is unable to kill the engine when shifting gears with wide open throttle. Oh and i believe An AAC is an IAC (Idle Air Controller) It is responsible for maintaining the correct idle speed when an accessory is used eg. Aircon cycling, power steering, headlights etc. Yes your headlights will affect engine speed a little as the alternator becomes harder for the engine to turn when its electrical load increases.

[Krys]

This stalling problem, is it only an issue with GTS-T's or will an NA have the same problem aswell? From what i've read so far only turboed cars are having this problem. Has anyone had this problem with their NA?

[justified2.4]

This dyno graph shows my hesistation is between 4000-4500 rpm, waiting for the A/F ratio curve

[BryanB]

i got this problem cept mine sounds more like baby zilla's problem and r31,

i have an r32 and i recently got this problem real bad, but i already changed my AFM connection plugged and cleaned my AFM out but that helped a lot but it seems to cut out every now and then which is really annoying, so maybe i shoudl maybe swap test another AFM or check grounds from the ECU?

i have also cleaned my AAC and did that fuel pump trick, the car i feel has a little more power, but yeah i got new plat plugs and cleaned my coil packs and also changed fuel filter, so im elimiinating the possibilties.....

any help would be appreciated.

bryan

[the phantom]

just a general comment...

The AAC valve is a proportional valve which controls the idle speed with assistance from the bimetalic valve when more bypass air is needed when cold. It also takes care of accessory, power steering and charging system load compensation. Another important function is to effectively slow throttle closing thus bringing the engine to idle nice and gently...i.e the hesitation in revs at about 1000 before dropping to idle. The A/C idle up is controlled solely by the IAC valve, which is only on/off in operation, and resides next to the AAC (on an r33 GTSt anyway).

Justified2.4.....I dont think your problem has anything to do with the idle control system...the A/F ratio plot should show the problem...leaky BOV perhaps, or fuel delivery issues???

[BryanB]

hmmm i check the ECU disconnected it then cleaned it ECC and then replugged it back and took the car for a good flogg and it hasn't cut out since that, strange.....

any reasons why im thinking a lost connection at the ECU.... but also what does resetting your ECU and giving it a good caining do?

[the phantom]

Some time ago when I was diagnosing this issue in my R33, I discovered a loose pin in the ECU plug. Even though it looked ok it wasn't making a connection. It just so happened to be the AAC drive wire. Needless to say this didn't fix my particular problem but it was a start!! I accidently noticed this whilst fumbling around the plug with the engine running...I noticed the revs climbing every time I nudged it.

Personally I dont believe ECU resetting does anything. Long term trends should be adaptable as they happen not once when the car is new. This is just my personal opinion however....

[BryanB]

must of been the ends of the connection point being loose then :|

[AutoTrust]

Sorry for seeming daft...but what does AAC stand for?

[the phantom]

AAC = Auxilliary Air Control

In my case it was the pin withing the plug that was loose and poorly connected.

[AutoTrust]

cool, in my experience, as an auto elec, the IAC is the variable component in the idle air control department. However the japaneese have a habit of calling things differently. i may get motivated to do some research one day when my stalling problem re-surfaces. I found that dialling up the idle at the air bypass worked well for me.

[the phantom]

On an R33, the IAC is another valve, right next to the AAC, which bumps up the idle for the aircon. There is yet another valve under the plenum, a bimetallic valve, which provides additional air for cold idle.

[AutoTrust]

Excellent, now i know what that weird thing under the inlet is!