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Nismo GT Le-mans Group A turbos. RR581's

Both were rebuilt less than 2000kms ago by Turbologic, one however will need a rebuild due to something getting sucked down the intake pipe and damaging the bearings and compressor wheel.

The housings have no damage at all and would just need a rebuild, the other one just had a full build with new shaft, wheels, bearings and seals. These were making 558.4 hp at the treads on my current GTR with other supporting mods.

I have spoken with CAMS and these can be used in events such as Targa Tasmania and are the largest turbos allowable for competitions that require "standard" turbo configurations.

Looking for $600 ono for the pair throw me some offers...need them gone this week...

Have a few standard R32 GTR parts for sale aswell...

R32 GTR Crank $200 (cheapest one on here)

R32 GTR Sump with Diff $100

R32 GTR Aircon Compressor $100

Standard R32 GTR camshafts with gears - $100

Standard RB26 intake manifold, no throttle bodies, does not leak and worked fine, just changed it for a plasmaman $60

Standard RB26 injectors great condition, set of 6 includes fuel rail $160 ono

Standard N1 GTR front lip - $150

Universal carbon wing at the moment the stands have spacers on each side to fit in the rear stock mount of the r32 gtr however front holes need to be drilled, had it on my r32 gtr before going a different direction is height adjustable i think 25cm and 40cm and is approx 155cm long, and about 26cm wide - $350 in great condition and has heavy duty feet for stands.

I can ship anything at the buyers expense, and open to offers on everything its all clogging up space and needs to go.

Contact me via PM or on 0434817247 and ill try to get back to you asap. All parts are located in Wollongong, about 1hr south of Sydney.

Also Injectors and fuel rail sold pending payment.

Aircon compressor sold pending payment...

Weekend Bump!!!

everything still available except for the injectors...

Make me an offer

Bump and price drop, make an offer on anything, except the sold stuff...

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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