Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im toying around with an idea for my standard gauges as i want to install a double din head unit in the car. I like having the torque gauge just cause its cool, but my plan wont allow me to use the current one.

Can you buy an after market gauge for the atessa system?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408145-after-market-guages/
Share on other sites

No aftermarket options are available; unless you count the Nismo 3 gauge set, which is just an uprated version of what you have! No singles! You could likely modify the circuit board to run it as a single & pod mount it or something, not impossible, just not easy! Or use a HKS Camp2 and display it on your D-din?!

Or use a HKS Camp2 and display it on your D-din?!

I didn't think you could do that?

I wonder if you could setup your own sender in the hydraulic lines or something and make that work?

I didn't think you could do that?

I wonder if you could setup your own sender in the hydraulic lines or something and make that work?

Isn't the original gauge simply a 0-5V afair? If you use the OEM sender & find where the appropiate wires appear at the back of the cluster, feed this into a 5V input to a new gauge/Camp2/etc & your done!

Of course a new 5V gauge is unlikely to say "Torque Split" or anything similar, so a custom face may be needed. I have 5V inputs on my wideband that can be displayed on a custom 'i-dash', so I could label it whatever I like. Bound to be plenty of other devices similar, besides Camp2 (sounds gay as a row of tents, lol).

But before all that, someone needs to confirm it is 0-5V or all of the above is a waste ot time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...